The Complete Travel Guide to Kilifi, Kenya | 2024

Rarely these days does it feel like I’ve stumbled into a true hidden gem. I visited Kilifi on word of mouth alone, trusting the word of a couple travelers raving about this laid-back coastal town sandwiched between Mombasa and Malindi. Hardly anything appeared online about Kilifi. Part of me wondered if it was a mistake prioritizing it over the more established beach towns of Watamu and Diani.

I initially booked two nights at the lone hostel that popped up on Hostelworld, a happy medium in case there truly was nothing to do here at all. I ended up extending my stay four times, rolling up to reception each morning slightly sunburnt but beaming with excitement for whatever random adventure Kilifi would throw at me that day. From nighttime swims in vibrant bioluminescence, motorcycle joyrides to hidden beaches, sunset dhow cruises with the friendly and fun-loving locals, Kilifi never disappointed.

I quickly realized why there were no travel guides or blogs on the Internet covering Kilifi. You don’t really need one to tell you what to do. You just wave a motorcycle down if you need a ride somewhere. Just ask a local if you’re looking for something to do. Follow the crowds to the nightly events that half the town ends up going to. Regardless, read on if you need a little guidance. Kilifi is budget-friendly, easy to explore, and best of all, filled with tons of smiling locals simply happy to have you visiting.

It’s difficult to state objectively as to why Kilifi stole my heart. I just knew that as soon as I arrived, a weight lifted off my shoulder and I was able to fully unwind and feel at home. In many ways, Kilifi reminded me of my home town in the Philippines, with its relaxed vibe, long strips of beaches, the creek running through town, and just an overall carefree atmosphere. It is a backpacker’s paradise that has yet to be unearthed.

Here’s everything you need to know before visiting Kilifi.

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Table of Contents

How To Get To Kilifi

Kilifi is located along Kenya’s coastline, overshadowed by the other Indian Ocean beach towns. Kilifi is only two hours north of Mombasa, Kenya’s second largest city, yet receives a fraction of the visitors that the famed Diani Beach does. Prior to the highway being built, Kilifi used to be a stop-over destination where travelers would have to take the ferry from Mombasa to Kilifi, before continuing by road. Because of this, Kilifi received a decent amount of visitors, but the highway being built actually led to a decline in people actually spending time in Kilifi, since no one was forced to stop and stay in the town to break up the journey north. Some locals have even told me that Kilifi has somewhat faded off the tourist trail, with Lamu, Malindi, Watamu, Mombasa, and Diani hogging the spotlight on the Kenyan coast.

The backpacker scene is relatively slim in Kenya, but once it picks up, I know that Kilifi will be at the forefront as a backpacker-favorite. It reminds me of Puerto Escondido or Canggu before their respective booms.

Getting to Kilifi from Mombasa and the South

From Mombasa, catch a matatu heading north towards Malindi. The journey should only take about two hours, depending on how frequently they make stops and how brutal the traffic going out of Mombasa is. The matatu will likely drop you off in Kilifi Town (Mavueni), or on the main highway in front of the Naivas. From there you can catch a boda (moto-taxi) or tuk-tuks to your accommodation. Taking the northbound bus from Mombasa to Lamu or Malindi is also an option, but more expensive. I’d recommend just toughing out the matatu for two hours. It only cost me 300 shillings, whereas the bus might charge you the full price of the Mombasa to Malindi ticket.

Getting to Kilifi From Lamu, Malindi, and the North.

From Malindi, you can catch the same matatu heading southbound to Mombasa. The journey will take about an hour. If you’re coming from Lamu, the journey is also easily doable in half a day. I went to Kilifi from Lamu, where I was able to catch a direct bus to Mombasa and have them drop me off in front of the Naivas in Kilifi. The matatu from Malindi or Mombasa should cost around 300 Kenyan shillings. The bus from Lamu cost me 1200 to go to Mombasa, but they didn’t lower the price for getting off earlier. The bus company I used was Tawakal. You can book a seat in advance at a Tawakal office, or show up a little early to try and guarantee yourself a seat.

Oh, and before you go, make sure to have good travel insurance handy whenever you’re out adventuring. I use SafetyWing to keep me covered throughout my travels for as low as $45 a month, and their coverage includes Kenya among the 190+ countries that they cover.

When Is The Best Time To Visit Kilifi?

The high season in Kilifi coincides with the high season throughout the rest of Kenya. After the long rainy season ends, Kenya becomes significantly busier. Starting in July, you can expect to see more travelers throughout Kenya in general. The influx of people coming to see the Great Migration will eventually trickle into every corner of Kenya, Kilifi included. I visited Kilifi during the low season at the beginning of April. Despite it being the season of heavy rain, I still got good weather and was one of the few backpackers in town. It’s up to you if you want to risk poor weather during your visit, but the vibe of Kilifi is what really pulled me in, rain or shine.

During New Year’s, there is a big week-long festival that will attract people from around the world. The Beneath The Baobabs Festival is a huge event, and if you plan on visiting Kilifi around that time, I’d recommend booking your accommodation and tickets sooner rather than later.

Another factor in deciding when to visit might be the bioluminescent plankton. I was also lucky to visit Kilifi during the new moon, which meant very dark nights giving the bioluminescent plankton their time to shine. This wasn’t a factor when I was planning my trip, and I had no idea they even existed here, but it absolutely became a highlight of my time in Kilifi.

Where To Stay in Kilifi

There are plenty of places to stay in and around Kilifi, but as a backpacker, I can’t recommend anywhere besides Distant Relatives Eco-Lodge and Backpackers. This place had it all, and was my favorite place I stayed in all of Kenya.

The dorms were about $20 a night, although the prices do increase during the high season. They also have private cabins as well as camping options. There are some tents already set up, although you can bring your own to save a little money.

Distant Relatives has a pool, restaurant, bar, several common areas, and is just set in a perfect, jungly setting. It’s a five minute walk to the beach on Kilifi Creek, and there are always drivers out front ready to take you into town or elsewhere whenever you feel like leaving. It brands itself as an eco-lodge as well as a backpacker hostel, and it truly lives up to that. Keep in mind that monkeys might break into your room, crawling creatures might join you in the outdoor shower, and mosquitoes are plentiful and relentless. Bush babies scream through the night and centipedes and toads will cut you off on the walking paths. Despite being every bit of a luxury backpacker’s hostel, it is a fairly immersive experience into nature. Like I said, it is my favorite hostel in Kenya, and you’d be doing yourself a disservice by staying anywhere else.

How To Get Around Kilifi

Despite not having a car and there not being any public transportation, getting around Kilifi is a breeze. There are countless bodas and tuk-tuks roaming around the area. They are not hard to find and are fairly consistent with the price. 200-300 shillings should get you anywhere within town. The outskirts of town can be up to 400-500 shillings.

I’d recommend snagging a few drivers’ WhatsApp numbers so you can contact someone to come pick you up if you’re having a hard time finding any. Having the driver wait for you is also an option, although I’d recommend this for shorter trips like to the supermarket or ATM, as opposed to a long dinner or a day lazing away on the beach. If you’re planning a big excursion, set the price with the driver beforehand, as they will charge you more if you want them to wait around for a few hours.

There are definitely some stretches of road in Kilifi that can be sketchy, but the drivers know what they’re doing. I learned to just let go and trust them. Taxis are also an option, although more expensive and not as easy to find as bodas or piki-pikis. You’ll likely have to arrange a car since I don’t remember seeing any driving around town picking people up. It’s a good idea to get the phone number of a taxi. Your accommodation should be able to connect you with one, if needed.

The Best Things To Do in Kilifi, Kenya

Bioluminescent Plankton in Kilifi Creek

So I had no idea that Kilifi even had bioluminescence, but it turned out to be one of the highlights of my entire Kenya trip. There is a beach just a short walk from Distant Relatives Hostel on Kilifi Creek, and my first night there, I went down to see the plankton and it was nothing short of incredible. I’d seen bioluminescence before, but never quite like that.

The highlight of my time in Kilifi was on my last night. It was the new moon, so the plankton were at their most visible. We decided to hop on a catamaran and sail to the other side of the creek. The waves rippled with neon blue the entire way through. We dove into the waters and swam with the plankton, an experience that was simply one-of-a-kind.

Takaungu Creek and Beach

There is a hidden beach that only appears at low tide. It was perhaps the most breathtaking view of the many I saw in Kilifi. Lush, jungly trees towered over the small strip of pristine sand and blue waters. A few fishermen waded in and out of the water counting their catch while I sat and took in the views. It’s the perfect spot for some scenic views in a peaceful setting. Be sure to time your visit with low tide as the beach becomes completely submerged during high tide.

Have a Coffee and a Meal at Food Movement

Food Movement, or FOMO as its frequent visitors call it, is a small collective with boutique shops, a cafe, a restaurant, and galleries tucked away in the forest and close to Takaunga Creek. Although a bit out of the way, this is a fantastic place to spend your morning. We got a coffee and sat on a small terrace intertwined with the large tree that the space is built around. After roaming through the galleries, shops, and little forest trails, we had a delicious lunch before continuing our adventures. It cost 400 shillings to get to from town, although I’d recommend having your drivers wait for you, or arrange a time to pick you back up. It’s very out of the way and unlikely that you’ll find a free boda driver hanging around the area.

Take in the Views of Kilifi’s Rugged Coastline at Vuma Cliffs

For one of the most breathtaking views Kilifi has to offer, head over to Vuma Cliffs. Walk along the rugged volcanic terrain as the waves crash below you. Try to visit during low tide to see the rock formations that resemble a snake and a crocodile. It is a beautiful place to soak in some fresh ocean air. Just watch your step as the terrain is jagged and can also be slippery.

Go On A Sunset Dhow Cruise

A Dhow is the traditional boat used by the people of this region. It is a narrow boat with a big sail, and when that wind blows, whew. There were quite a few times I thought we were going to tip over. However, these guys know what they’re doing, and many of the guys I talked to have sailed up and down the coast many times, sometimes for weeks at a time. There’s no better time to hop on a Dhow than at sunset. We just found some guys on the beach willing to take us and it cost 1500 shillings per person. The ride through Kilifi Creek lasted about two hours. Bring a speaker and some drinks, and enjoy the views.

Watch a Traditional Mwanzele Dance Performance

Mwanzele is a dance traditional to the Mijikenda, or Nine Tribes, of Coastal Kenya. They are typically performed for big ceremonies, such as funerals, but many restaurants and bars will have weekly Mwanzele performances. On Fridays, the mwanzele dancing takes place at Kavenya. On Sundays, it takes place in the Giriama village about a ten minute walk from Distant Relatives. If you’re staying at Distant Relatives, one of the locals hanging around will be happy to take you. The performances also happen on other nights, so ask around to see if any are happening during your stay. I know for sure they have them on Saturdays as well, but I can’t remember exactly where. It’s a good cultural experience to witness the traditional dancing.

Watch the Kitesurfer’s at Salty’s Beach Bar

Along Kilifi’s long strip of public beach, you’ll find Salty’s, a staple of the community. This hotel also doubles as a kite-surfing school, but anyone can come by and order a meal or a drink and take in the views. It gets pretty lively in the evening, and is one of the best places to go out in Kilifi. While it’s one of the more expensive places to stay, the prices at the restaurant are still fairly budget-friendly. It’s worth coming by to catch the sunset and staying until dark when they start to spin some electronic music and the place begins to get livelier.

Take a Day Trip Up To Watamu Beach

Watamu Beach is about an hour away from Kilifi, although it depends on if you go the public transportation route or take a taxi or boda the entire way. This is one of Kenya’s most beautiful beaches, and although I liked the vibes of Kilifi more, Watamu’s beach is undeniably nicer. Some people make a separate trip and stay in Watamu for a few days, but it can also be visited as a day trip from Kilifi.

Go Snorkeling at Kuruwitu Conservancy

There’s a marine reserve about 45 minutes south of Kilifi town called Kuruwitu. It costs 1200 shillings to hire a guide and rent gear for the snorkeling trip, which is a great deal. Sometimes you can see turtles, but for the most part, I didn’t find it too spectacular. It’s a fun activity at a great value, though. Just be sure to wear sunscreen because you stand no chance against the African sun otherwise. Transportation will cost you about 3000 shillings for the roundtrip journey, including the time your driver waits for you. It’s a good idea to pair the Vuma Cliffs and Takaunga Creek as both are kind of on the way back to Kilifi. The driver didn’t charge extra for this detour, but we were also homies by then and I think he just wanted me to take nice pictures of him on my phone.

Go For A Night Out: Nightlife Spots in Kilifi

Kusini Tavern

Kusini is the main spot where all the locals go to. It is an outdoor restaurant and bar that shows sports matches on their many TVs, but after midnight, it evolves into a big party. The main fare is afro-beats, but there are multiple places to dance that have different music. I’d recommend popping in for a big nyama choma dinner, have some budget-friendly drinks, and then dance the night away. They stay open pretty late, as I remember the sun rising as I was hopping on the boda to take me home.

Distant Relatives

Along with being a hostel, Distant Relatives is a big party spot on Fridays. They bring in a DJ and the pool area turns into a dance floor until around midnight. The bar at Distant Relatives has a large variety of drinks, from local and imported beers to a number of cocktails. As far as I know, the parties are free to enter. Aside from that, Distant Relatives also occasionally hosts other events throughout the week. I just missed out on a boat party happening a few days after I left, and like I mentioned earlier, they’ll be happy to take people to the mwanzele parties in the nearby local Giriama village.

Salty’s Beach Bar

Although it shuts down pretty early at 11 PM, Salty’s is always a good vibe and music at the bar. The strong breeze coming oceanside keeps you cool as you boogie down.

There are quite a few other places to go out in Kilifi, although most of them are pretty quiet outside of high season. Kavenya and Big Wave Gardens were the other two that I heard about, but didn’t get the chance to visit. I was very loyal to Kusini. It was a guaranteed party every night, and a much more local scene than some of the other spots that cater mostly to expats and wealthy travelers.

Regardless of where you end up, Kilifi is a guaranteed good time. Grab breakfast and coffee at the Food Movement, take an afternoon dip in Takaunga Creek, chow down on some cheap biryani at Apache Indian, catch sunset from Giriama Paradise, take a late-night swim with the bioluminescent plankton in Kilifi Creek, then head to Kusini Tavern for some nyama choma and dance the night away. A perfect day, if you ask me.

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If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget

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