The charming and culturally-rich island of Lamu is without a doubt one of the top destinations in Kenya. The pace of life here is idyllic. When you think of an island getaway, Lamu is as close as it gets to a full escape from the world. Cars are banned on this island, with boats and bicycles serving as the local transportation. Google Maps will do you no good here, simply ask a local if you need help navigating Lamu’s labyrinthine thoroughfares. The sun-kissed pastels of its houses and mosques, the fruit vendors lining the narrow alleyways, countless donkeys roaming the streets freely, Lamu is an all-out vibe.
Here’s everything you need to know before diving into the laid-back lifestyle of Lamu Island.
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Table of Contents
How To Get to Lamu Island
Getting to Lamu By Flight
The easiest way to get to Lamu Island is by catching a flight. Major cities like Nairobi, Mombasa, and Malindi have daily flights to Lamu. It will save you a lot of time, but it can be much more expensive, especially if you book last minute or during high season. A few different airlines service Lamu, like Safari Link and Jambo Jet. I recommend Jambo Jet because their planes are pink and have animals on them.
After landing, you’ll arrive at the tiny Manda Airport. From there, walk a few hundred meters straight ahead to catch a public boat to town. It will cost 200 shillings and drop you off at the jetty port of Lamu Old Town. It can be tricky figuring out how to reach your accommodation as Lamu’s old town is very much a labyrinth that can swallow you up. The locals are friendly, though, so just ask around. The people right on the boardwalk will likely approach you first, and ask for a tip afterwards. You can go with them or try your luck elsewhere.
If you’re staying in Shela, I’d imagine you can also catch a boat to Shela from the airport. Otherwise, a boat taxi from Lamu it is. A motorcycle taxi also works if you can fit your luggage on a motorcycle.
Getting to Lamu By Land
I traveled south along the coast after Lamu, and while there were quite a few extra steps, it was simple enough. I took a boat from Lamu to the mainland town of Mokowe where matatus (shared minivans) and buses were heading south for Malindi and beyond. I got lucky and snagged one of the last seats on the Tawakal bus. I paid 1200 shillings for a ticket to Mombasa, even though I was getting off two hours before at Kilifi.
To get to Lamu, just do my journey in reverse. There are buses from Mombasa and Malindi that will take you to the port past Mokowe where you can hop on a boat to Lamu Island. Be sure to check the bus schedule, as there were only two buses leaving from Lamu daily, one at 10 am and one at 11 am. I think the buses from Mombasa are overnight buses. Matatus, although a little more cramped and chaotic, can often be more reliable. They simply leave when they’re full or close to full, so this is an option no matter the time of day. The matatu from Lamu to Malindi was 1500 shillings. I’d imagine it’s something similar for the way up.
Where To Stay on Lamu Island
Lamu is split up into two main towns, Lamu and Shela. There are other small villages on the island, but as a traveler, your time will likely be split between Lamu and Shela. These two towns are where most of the accommodation, restaurants, shops, ATMs and all tourist necessities are located.
Lamu Old Town
If you prefer a livelier and more historic setting, I would stay in Lamu Old Town. I wouldn’t even call it particularly lively, but it’s definitely less sleepy than Shela. Not by much, though. Don’t expect to be doing anything past 10 PM on either side of the island.
Jambo House Hostel is where I stayed. There are no dorms, but the private rooms are about $16 a night. The rooms are basic but it’s a good value for its location in the heart of Lamu’s old town. The owner was extremely friendly and unbelievably helpful. Upon check-in, he gave me a map with many points of interest marked and then went through it with me for a good 30 minutes. He’s happy to organize anything your heart desires. I had a pretty chill time in Lamu, but I knew that if I wanted to embark on some grand adventure, he had me covered. Breakfast was also nice for the low price of 300 shillings. The rooftop offered a great view of the town and the sea, and a good alternative for sunset if you don’t feel like making it over to Shela.
Shela
Shela is a more idyllic town about an hour’s walk from Lamu’s old town. This is where the nicer beachfront resorts can be found. The typical travelers here seemed to be couples or families, and the overall vibe was more luxurious and upscale. I don’t know much about finding budget accommodation over on this side, but if you feel like pampering yourself, Shela is the place to do it.
How To Get Around Lamu Island
There are no cars on Lamu Island, at least none approved for use by the general public. Therefore, one has to get creative to move around Lamu.
Boats
The price of a boat from Lamu Town to Shela varies depending on how many people are sharing the boat. As a solo traveler visiting during low season, oftentimes, it meant I was the only one on the boat. On a shared boat, it sometimes cost as little as 200 shilling per person. At most, I paid 1000 shillings when it was my only option after dark during high tide.
Boats can also take you to the airport, the mainland (Mokowe) if you need to catch a bus, or to Manda Beach for a nicer, even more secluded beach. Just be sure to get the contact of your captain to pick you up when you’re done as there are no guarantees that anyone will be around after dark to pick you up.
Motorcycle Taxi (Boda)
Getting from Lamu Old Town to Shela and vice versa should only cost about 200 shillings each way. It’s much more budget-friendly than a boat, although it is dependent on the tides. Bodas will only take you during low tide, so be sure to check the tides beforehand and plan accordingly. The bodas aren’t hard to come by, but if you walk towards the edge of either Lamu town or Shela town, that’s where they’ll be waiting for you. Be warned, the short journey will involve quite a bit of off-roading on the sand. It’s all part of the Lamu adventure.
Best Things To Do on Lamu Island
Explore Lamu Old Town
Lamu’s old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and for good reason. It is one of the best displays of original Swahili architecture, although the Arabic influence from when Lamu was an Omani protectorate and prominent Indian Ocean port is evident. Although Lamu Town is small, having an aimless wander through its labyrinthine streets is one of the best things to do here. It is a photographer’s paradise, with picture-perfect scenes everywhere you look.
Just be careful not to step in the donkey poop that is practically everywhere, and you’ll be good.
Visit Shela Beach and Shela Town
Shela is where the more upscale travelers tend to stay. It is cleaner and quieter, and right next to the long strip of beach that Lamu is famous for. I came here a few times for a wander, and it is admittedly more photogenic, and I oftentimes wondered if I was on Mykonos instead of Lamu. I think it’s worth coming to Shela to explore its narrow streets flanked with all-white buildings, and maybe having a meal at Peponi Restaurant right on the water. There are a few boutiques in Shela, as well, but a couple of hours is more than enough to see what Shela town has to offer.
Catch Sunset From Manda Beach
Over on the mainland, you’ll find Manda Beach. It will give you a perfect view of the sun setting over the Indian Ocean. Few people make it over here as you’ll need a boat to get here. One can also take a boat to the airport and then catch a motorcycle taxi to Manda Beach.
Take a Walking Tour of Lamu
If you’re wandering around Lamu town, many locals will ask you if you want a guided tour. The tours typically run between 1-2 hours and they’ll ask for about 1000 shillings, although it doesn’t take much bargaining to lower the price. I would use 1000 shillings as a baseline, and give or take a couple hundred depending on your experience. It’s a good way to see parts of Lamu that a non-local would easily miss, or might hesitate to step foot into altogether.
Museums in Lamu
Lamu Museum, the Swahili Museum, and Lamu Fort are the three main establishments on the island to get a feel for Lamu’s rich history. I wouldn’t call any of them particularly impressive, but the entrance fees are reasonable and it gives you something to do during the sizzling hot middays of Lamu.
Hike Up the Dunes for Sunset
There are some small dunes overlooking Shela beach. This is a popular sunset activity for those looking for a great view at golden hour. You can do this by yourself or hire someone to take you up there from Lamu town. I just went up by myself, but I’m not sure if there is a specific spot that the guided trips will take you to.
Restaurants in Lamu
While I did not do much in Lamu, I definitely ate too much to compensate for that. The seafood here is to die for and the prices are very reasonable. I ate at a variety of places in Lamu and my favorites were the Seafront Cafe, Peponi Hotel, and Mwana Arafa. Seafront Cafe had excellent seafood dishes at affordable prices. Mwana Arafa was budget-friendly and had good coffee. Peponi Hotel is over in Shela, and a little pricier, but still not too bad for the heaping portions of seafood they gave me.
Go Cafe-Hopping
I’m a sucker for coffee and thankfully, Lamu did not disappoint. El Dulce Toro, Mwana Arafa Cafe, and Whispers were some excellent cafes in Lamu Town. I loved the vibe of each one, and they all have gardens that are very peaceful and charming.
That’s truly just about it for Lamu. It is a great place to detox and take it slow. Considering that it was one of the few destinations in Kenya that I’d actually heard of before arriving, I was surprised at how quiet and sleepy the island was. It was a pleasant change of pace after the more hectic way of life in Nairobi, so no complaints here. If you’re planning a trip to Kenya, Lamu very much deserves to be on the itinerary.
Buy Me A Beer!
If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.
I Love the rustic look of the town ✨