Try as I did, I could not stay away from Nairobi. It was my first destination on my lengthy African backpacking trip, and what a welcome to the continent it was. I landed at the Nairobi airport at 3 AM and took a taxi to my hostel. It was on the side of the highway, the gate was locked, and security was not answering, despite me confirming with the hostel beforehand that it was fine for me to show up at such an unideal hour. For about ten minutes, I stood there with all my luggage wondering what I was doing with my life. Was the beginning of my much-hyped African adventure also going to be the immediate end of it?

I concocted a plan to throw my bags over the fence and hide in the shadows until someone woke up. Fortunately, a security guard showed up before I had to resort to that. I cozied up in the hostel’s hammock after a lengthy travel day. I didn’t wake up until it was time to check-in, and Susan, the hostel owner, retorted that I came all the way to Kenya just to sleep. Today was a write-off as I recovered from jet lag and general travel exhaustion, but luckily, the rest of my Nairobi adventures were significantly more exciting. I became very familiar with every corner of this city as I used it as a home base going to and from Kenya’s many epic excursions. It didn’t take long for it to begin feeling like a home (very far) away from home.

Backpackers may tend to avoid big cities in favor of quieter, more natural destinations, but Nairobi is an inevitability. It is one of the continent’s few major travel hubs. Odds are, you will be passing through Kenya’s pulsating capital city multiple times. I promise, it’s not that bad. Here’s everything to know before taking on Nairobi and how to make the most of your time, whether voluntary or involuntary, in “the place of cool water.”

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Table of Contents

• Things To Know Before Going to Nairobi
• Getting to Nairobi
• Where to Stay in Nairobi
• Getting Around Nairobi
• Best Things To Do in Nairobi
• Best Day Trips From Nairobi
• Closing Thoughts on Nairobi
• More on Kenya

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What to Know Before Heading to Nairobi

Nairobi is a huge city, by far the largest in Kenya and one of the largest in Africa. It can be a formidable destination, especially when it often serves as the starting point for many travelers visiting Kenya and East Africa. Here are a few quick tips to get your feet set.

Entering Kenya: Visa Requirements, Vaccines, and Travel Authorizations

Before going, make sure you have any necessary visas and travel authorizations. As an American, I just needed to fill out an Electronic Travel Authorization online and pay a fee of about $35. Alternatively, one can look into the East Africa Tourist Visa if Uganda, Tanzania, and Rwanda are also on the itinerary. My ETA was meant to be valid for 90 days, but immigration will ask how long you plan on staying in Kenya. My plans weren’t set in stone, so I estimated a month, and they only gave me 30 days without me realizing it. That led to some chaos at the Uganda border and I ended up paying $100 to the immigration officer to let me leave. When asked, just say 90 days to be safe and give yourself some leeway. There are some incredible things to do in Kenya, including tons of hidden gems that you might not know about now, but won’t want to leave the country without seeing.

The yellow fever vaccine is only necessary if you are coming from a country of concern. I didn’t need it to enter Kenya coming from the United States, but if I were to enter Kenya again after traveling to Uganda, I would have needed to show my yellow card. You can stay up to date with Kenya’s vaccine requirements here.

Currency in Kenya

The currency in Kenya is the Kenyan shilling, although the U.S. dollar is often accepted by businesses in the tourism industry. Hostels, hotels, tour agencies, safari companies, trekking groups are all happy to take U.S. dollar. In some places, the U.S. dollar is the only currency accepted, like the entrance fees to some national parks. Be sure to double check which currency you’ll need before withdrawing cash. Money exchanges are plentiful, and there are several different ATMs that allow you to withdraw both dollars and shillings.

Language in Kenya

While Kenya is filled with countless cultures, tribes, and languages, the most common language in Nairobi is Swahili. However, courtesy of the British Empire, a lot of people in Nairobi speak English. It shouldn’t be a problem navigating Kenya with English alone, although learning a few basic Swahili phrases will be helpful.

Safety in Nairobi

The main concern many people may have is safety. While Nairobi is generally safe, as a foreigner, you are never going to fly under the radar. To a lot of locals, being a foreigner means being rich. Given the privilege it is to be able to travel internationally, they’re not wrong. It’s a complex topic, and while I’m happy to tip extra and pay a slight tourist tax, it can often turn to scams and hustles. When I needed to get on a local minibus to Naivasha, I was dragged through the streets by someone insisting they’ll take me where I need to go. They ushered me on a minibus, insisted it will take me where I need to go, and then got his tip from me and then his commission from the driver. It did not take me to the right place, and I ended up on the side of the highway about 45 minutes away.

Traveling in Kenya can be very challenging mentally, and my experiences with the people were the highest of highs and lowest of lows. Like I said, with some street smarts and avoiding the dodgier neighborhoods, Nairobi is generally safe. At the same time, it can be endlessly frustrating.

For everything else, check out my crash course travel guide to Kenya. It should have you covered with all the basics.

Getting to Nairobi

All roads lead to Nairobi. It is the most well-connected city in East Africa, with trains, planes, and automobiles all making their way to Nairobi at all times. If you are coming from outside of Kenya, then a flight is the best way to reach Nairobi. The Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is the main international airport that serves Nairobi, and there are plenty of flights from all over the world.

Once you land and go through immigration, call an Uber to your accommodation. While there is a bus, #34, that takes you from the airport to Nairobi, it can be crowded and chaotic with all your luggage.

If you’re within East Africa headed to Nairobi, then buses, matatus, and trains are all options. I took a train from Mombasa to Nairobi on the SGR and it was one of my favorite experiences in all of Africa. I also took a night bus to Kampala from Nairobi and that was one of my least favorite experiences in all of Africa. The quality of your journey can be a crapshoot, but Nairobi is very easy to travel to and from. It’s an excellent home base for exploring Kenya and East Africa’s many incredible destinations.

Before heading off on your African safari, make sure you have a plan for staying connected. I use Saily eSIM to keep me online during my travels, ensuring that I have internet from the moment I land to the moment I leave. Navigating directions, coordinating travel plans with new hostel friends, booking a ride, and so on – having an eSIM makes life that much easier when you’re on the road. Data packages for Kenya start at just $7, and you can use my code “eli5” for an additional 5% off of your first Saily eSIM.

Where To Stay in Nairobi

Nairobi has a wide variety of accommodation options. It’s actually wild how much accommodation can vary in Kenya, ranging from budget hostels to several-thousand-dollar a night safari lodges. For this bit, we’re sticking to those budget hostels because they truly be the only thing I know.

Jabulani Backpacker’s Hostel

Jabulani Backpackers felt like a second home by the time I left Kenya. Due to my poor planning, my route in Kenya ended up taking me to-and-from Nairobi four times. Each time, I’d WhatsApp Susan a message to let her know I was coming, and that was the extent of having to reserve a spot. While this new hostel is small and fairly basic, the family atmosphere cannot be overlooked. Susan and the staff always go above and beyond to make sure everyone is having a great time, often tagging along on activities or nights out.

Nairobi Backpacker’s Hostel

Nairobi Backpacker’s Hostel is the other hostel I’d recommend. Before Jabulani came around, this was the main hostel to stay at in Nairobi. I personally didn’t stay here, but have heard good things from other backpackers I met in Kenya.

I also spent some time at Airbnbs and apartments. Sometimes, sharing a stuffy hostel dorm with other travelers is the last thing you want after trekking up Mount Kenya or sleeping in a tent in the Maasai Mara. There were many affordable options in Nairobi and I stayed at some incredible homes for less than $40 a night.

How To Get Around Nairobi: Matatus and Public Transport

Nairobi is a city that is constantly on the move. Despite being a sprawling, massive metropolis, Nairobi is fairly easy to get around. Public transportation is plentiful, from trains, city buses and the colorful matatus (shared minibuses) that brighten up the city.

Despite the abundance of options, it can be pretty overwhelming actually navigating the public transportation. In concept, it isn’t the hardest thing to figure out. Usually, all one needs to do is wave down a vehicle headed in the desired direction. Pretty self-explanatory, right? However, very few foreigners use local transportation. As a mzungu, you will stick out. For the most part, this won’t be a problem and with basic street smarts, Nairobi isn’t an unsafe city. You will definitely be more of a target for pickpocketing or another scam before too long. Nothing ever happens until it does, ya feel? Don’t even get me started on actually going to a matatu stand and trying to find the right one. You’ll get dragged left and right by people trying to get you on their matatu, regardless of if it’s the correct one or not. Can you tell I’m still traumatized by that first matatu adventure to Lake Naivasha?

If you do plan on using public transportation, the app Moovit can help you navigate Nairobi’s public transport, including buses and matatus. One of the most important things in Nairobi is confidence. Looking like a lost tourist will open the doors to opportunists who will salivate at the chance to separate you from your belongings.

Some parts of Nairobi are walkable but mostly around the Central Business District. I’m a walker through and through, but sidewalks in Nairobi can be few and far between. Even then, you never know when a motorcycle might hop on and zoom past you in an effort to beat the traffic. Outside of the Central Business District, you will have to resort to wheels. Uber and Bolt are two of the ride-hailing apps used in Nairobi. Both are budget-friendly by Western standards. You can also order boda-bodas, or motorcycle taxis, on those apps for even cheaper.

Mostly, I’d recommend using ride-hailing apps to get around Nairobi. They are fairly affordable and the safest way to get around, especially later in the evening.

The Best Things To Do in Nairobi

Nairobi itself doesn’t have too much to do, serving more as a home base and the gateway to Kenya’s grand adventures. However, there is plenty to fill your time in between safari stints and mountain getaways.

Go on the Nai Nami Walking Tour with Former Nairobi Street Kids

 

Perhaps the best thing I did in Nairobi was take a walking tour with Nai Nami, a company owned and managed by former street kids who grew up homeless in Nairobi. It’s not your typical walking tour, and you won’t run into anything a tourist might come to Nairobi for. It is not a slums tour, don’t worry, I would never.

Instead, we met up with our guide in downtown Nairobi and split up into groups. Including the guide, no group was larger than three people, making for a very intimate experience. With Nai Nami, the guide walks with you across downtown Nairobi, telling stories of their lives growing up homeless on the streets of Kenya’s ruthless capital. They’ll occasionally point out places of interest that held significance in their lives, but don’t expect anything touristic. With my guide, Tsunami, he showed us the Sikh temple that fed him during his hardest days. He walked us along the river where he and his sister would seek shade and cool off from the scorching Kenyan heat. It was the same river where she would eventually drown after the river suddenly rose whilst she slept in their usual spot beneath a bridge. Tsunami told us gut-wrenching stories of police brutality and the incredible lengths they had to go through to survive while being viewed by everyone else as subhuman.

A walking tour with Nai Nami is not for everybody, but to see a side of Nairobi that most tourists, and even locals, turn a blind eye to, this is an incredible experience.

Catch Panoramic Skyline Views from the Convention Center

For stunning panoramic views of Nairobi’s expansive skyline and lush greenery, head to the top floor of the Kenyatta International Convention Center. For foreigners, it costs 500 shilling to visit the rooftop, which is pretty budget-friendly compared to what other cities charge for skyline views.

Take on Nairobi’s Vibrant Nightlife Scene

Nairobi is one of the most poppin’ nightlife cities I have ever been to. They really know how to party over here in Kenya’s crazy capital. From sipping on Tuskers atop terrace bars to raving in old train cars at the Railway Museum, I had some unforgettable nights out in Nairobi. It can be tough knowing where to start, and for the most part, I just tagged along with the hostel crew. Susan, the owner of Jabulani Backpackers, was always happy to take us out and drink with us, so I recommend staying there if you want to experience Nairobi’s nightlife. We’d typically start at a cool bar like the Alchemist or Unseen, before moving over to a nightclub like Black Samurai. There are tons of options in Nairobi, so just see where the night takes you.

Visit the Natural History Museum of Kenya

The Natural History Museum is a good way to kill a few hours and get an introduction to the country you’re about to dive into. It isn’t the best-kept museum and it is pretty outdated, but regardless, it’s still one of the best ways to learn about Kenya, and East Africa’s many cultures.

Maasai Market and City Market

For souvenir shopping, the City Market is a good place to go. It is small but the shops are plentiful and well-stocked with a wide variety of knickknacks and trinkets. Surprisingly, it was a pretty chill market and no one really bothered me while I browsed through the stalls. With how aggressive some vendors are elsewhere, I fully expected to be jumping into the lion’s den, but I actually enjoyed it here. The vendors were laid-back and more than happy to chat about anything and everything.

Have a meal at the Thorn Tree Cafe

Back in the day, there was a thorn tree at an intersection where travelers would meet or leave notes behind advising others on recent news or trip reports. That tree is gone now, but in its place, there is the Thorn Tree Cafe. It is one of the nicest places in Nairobi for a meal or a cup of coffee. Travelers today maintain the tradition by leaving notes behind on a bulletin board instead of a thorn tree.

Take a Walk Through Karura Forest

The Karura Forest is Nairobi’s premier green space and popular among locals and visitors alike. With over 50 kilometers of trails, the Karura is the go-to spot for people seeking to escape the congestion and chaos of Nairobi and immerse themselves in nature. With the Karura Forest spanning over 1,000 hectares, plenty of wildlife call this green area home. A lucky hiker might stumble into a honey badger, a porcupine, or one of the many species of monkeys, birds, and antelopes that dwell in Karura Forest.

Hiking in the Ngong Hills

Looking for something a little more hike-y? One of the more easily accessible hiking trails from Nairobi are the Ngong Hills, about an hour away from downtown Nairobi. This area is popular among hikers looking to escape the city. Susan, the hostel owner of Jabulani Backpackers, took us out here for a beautiful day hike that may not be on most backpackers’ radars.

Expect breathtaking sights of Nairobi and the Great Rift Valley along this moderately challenging hike along undulating hills, with the highest point reaching 2,460 meters above sea level. On clear days, if you are especially lucky, there is even a chance of catching glimpses of Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya in the far distance. Speaking of, Mount Kenya absolutely belongs on your bucket lists. Be sure to get some practice runs at Ngong Hills before going, because whew, that was not an easy trek to take on with minimal training beforehand.

Visit the Karen Blixen Museum

Close to the Ngong Hills, you’ll find the Karen Blixen Museum. Karen Blixen was a Danish writer who lived in Nairobi, and is most famous for her work Out of Africa. This museum is set in her residential home, where you can find everything the way she left it before she passed.

The Best Day Trips From Nairobi

Like I said, there isn’t too much to do in Nairobi itself, but it is a great home base for exploring your nearby surroundings.

Take a Safari Through Nairobi National Park, Visit the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Elephant Orphanage and Giraffe Center

How good can a national park right next to such a big city be? Despite its proximity to Nairobi, this national park is not to be overlooked. While small, it is home to a high concentration of wildlife. Your odds of seeing a rhino here are much higher than in Kenya’s other, more remote national parks.

There is a lot to see in Nairobi National Park and this will easily eat up an entire day. It is home to the Giraffe Center where one can feed giraffes. The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is also a popular attraction home to an elephant orphanage and an adorable baby rhino. He won’t stay baby for long though, so better pay him a visit now. Needless to say, the opportunity to hang out with baby elephants and rhinos is extremely popular. There is only a limited window to visit them, and reservations must be made ahead of time. You are able to reserve spots up to three months in advance, so if you’ve got your itinerary somewhat in place, it is best to book these attractions sooner rather than later.

The downside to Nairobi National Park is the number of hidden costs that aren’t included in the park’s entrance fee. You’ll have to pay to visit both the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and Giraffe Center. If you don’t have your own vehicle, you’ll have to pay for a driver and guided safari, as well. However, you have come this far and it will be worth it for these unique experiences.

Lake Naivasha and Hell’s Gate National Park

Less than two hours from Nairobi is Naivasha, famous for its lake, the Longonot Crater, and Hell’s Gate National Park. All of these can be visited on a guided day trip from Nairobi. However, I’d recommend spending a few days in Lake Naivasha. It was one of my favorite stops in Kenya. Staying along the lake was an idyllic change of pace from Nairobi, and the adventures here were a great introduction to the wild side of Africa. Cycling in Hell’s Gate National Park among giraffes and zebras, taking a boat ride on Lake Naivasha with families of wild hippos, Naivasha is perfect for adventurers looking to get out of the city.

Mount Longonot National Park and Longonot Crater

Although Longonot Crater is closer to Lake Naivasha, it will be hard to squeeze it in during a day trip if you plan on visiting the other highlights of Naivasha. From Nairobi, you can take on this day hike to the Longonot volcanic crater. It takes about 5 hours to hike up to the crater and circle the entire rim of the crater. It can be a challenging hike. Parts of the trail are eroded, and you will be constantly hiking uphill and downhill as you circle the crater. It’s a beautiful trek, though, and there is a high chance of running into (herbivorous) wildlife.

Closing Thoughts on Nairobi

Nairobi is an electric travel destination that can overwhelm the senses, for better or for worse. Over time, I grew to love Nairobi and the many things that make it special. From the rare opportunity to see wildlife just minutes from a bustling city center, to its rich cultural experiences, booming nightlife scene, and a surprisingly diverse culinary offering, Kenya’s capital city truly blends adventure with modern urban charm. For those that give this city a chance, Nairobi promises an unforgettable experience.

Buy Me A Beer!

If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.

More on Kenya and East Africa

• The Backpacker’s Crash Course Travel Guide to Kenya
• One Month Kenya Travel Itinerary
• The Complete Travel Guide to Lamu Island
• The Complete Travel Guide to Kilifi
• The Backpacker’s Crash Course Travel Guide to Uganda