Where to begin with Peru? After nearly a decade — and 80+ countries — of traveling full-time, Peru remains the country to beat. I’ve visited five times now, even overstaying a 90-day visa once, and it never feels like enough. Peru is the ultimate backpacker’s paradise.

Lima to Cusco is the classic first trip to Peru (including mine), and for good reason. In about three to four weeks, you go from one of the world’s great food cities to sea lions, a desert oasis, the White City of Arequipa and one of the deepest canyons on Earth, before finishing in the old Inca capital and the Sacred Valley. I skipped northern Peru on my first visit too, and this travel itinerary is still the route that I’d send any first-timer on.

Lima serves as a great starting point, with big city comforts to help you get settled into the country. A few short bus rides will take you to calmer villages along the coast and hidden in the desert. Then, the road climbs from sea level to over 3,000 meters. Peru’s got range, y’all, and we are in the thick of it now. As tempting as it is to hightail it to Machu Picchu, there is a lot along the way that you’ll be missing. Every stop below includes how to get there, where to stay, what to do and why it’s worth your time.

My Backpacking Route At A Glance

Stop	Days	Getting there
Lima	2–3	Fly in; Uber from the airport ~$10
Paracas	2	Direct bus from Lima, ~S/ 30
Huacachina	1–2	Bus to Ica (~1 hr), then a tuk-tuk
Nazca (optional)	Half a day	Bus south from Ica
Arequipa + Colca Canyon	3 + 2	Overnight bus
Cusco	4–5+	Overnight bus or a 1-hr flight from Lima
Pisac	2–3	Colectivo from Cusco, ~S/ 5, 1 hr
Ollantaytambo	2	Colectivo via Urubamba
Machu Picchu	4–5	Salkantay trek, Inca Trail or train

All in, it’ll take you about 3-4 weeks, but adapt it to your heart’s desire. I’d say for a first-timer, this will hit all the highlights of Peru’s southern loop. Northern Peru is another beast entirely. Now, let’s dive into it.

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Lima: 2–3 days

Bienvenidos a Peru. Most people treat Lima as an airport with a city attached and leave the next morning. However, don’t be too quick to gloss over Peru’s capital just yet. It’s an excellent place to get your feet set in Peru, not to mention that Lima is one of the best food cities on the planet. Two or three days here, even just to eat, are days well spent. Better yet, take a cooking class, so you can bring the flavors of Peru back home with you.

Spend a day on the coast. Walk the Miraflores clifftops while paragliders drift overhead, rent a surfboard on the beach below, and catch sunset at Parque del Amor before saying hi to the many cats of Parque Kennedy. Then walk 30 minutes along the ocean or take the bus to Barranco, Lima’s artsy barrio of street art, galleries, thrift shops and cozy hole-in-the-wall restaurants and bars. For history, head to the Historic Center, duck into the catacombs under Santo Domingo, and order a pisco sour at Hotel Bolívar, which claims to have been the birthplace of the famous cocktail.

At night, Miraflores has the big clubs: start on the Black Llama rooftop, then Bisarro for reggaeton and house until late. Barranco is cozier, with salsa and live music at Sargento Pimienta. Lima is a great introduction to Peruvian culture, gastronomy and nightlife. Don’t rush past it. But hey, if you’re not feeling Lima at all, hop on a boat and take a day trip to the Palomino Islands to spot some sea lions. It’s one of the best getaways from the city.

Where to stay: Miraflores or Barranco. Miraflores is more cosmopolitan, and still the main hub of the city for dining, nightlife, and tourism. Pariwana Hostel is an institution by this point, outlasting every other backpacker hostel in Lima. Barranco’s got a calmer vibe, feeling more like a small town within the city. Can’t go wrong with either.

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Paracas: 2 days

A few hours south of Lima, the coast turns into red-sand desert. Paracas is a small beach town with one big reason to visit: the Islas Ballestas. The two-hour boat trip passes cliffs packed with sea lions, penguins, boobies and pelicans. Having been too broke to visit the Galapagos in Ecuador, the Islas Ballestas were a great budget-friendly alternative, and was one of the coolest things I did in Peru. You can’t land on the islands, and every tour is basically the same. Haggling skills can get the tour down to about $10-15 USD when you book in person.

Spend another day exploring the Paracas National Reserve, a ~ 20 mile circuit of desert, cliffs, red beaches and sweeping viewpoints. I rented a bike from town and the whole journey took me nearly five hours. A guided quad or a tour bus is easier, but I don’t mind having taken the scenic route at all. Bring sunscreen and expect wind. Kitesurfers love it here for a reason. Finish with ceviche on the Malecón, or walk a few streets inland for more affordable local specialties.

Getting there: a direct bus from Lima takes a few hours, and several bus companies run this route. Shouldn’t be an issue rocking up to the bus station and hopping on the next departure.

Where to stay: It was the legendary Kokopelli hostel back in my day, but they’ve changed ownership and are part of the Viajero chain now. Different name, but same property and same vibe. It’s right on the beach, with a pool and nightly events, serving as basically the entire town’s whole nightlife scene.

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Huacachina: 1–2 days

Huacachina is a tiny lagoon ringed by palm trees and some of the biggest sand dunes you’ll see outside of Africa. Huacachina is sleepy by day and surprisingly wild by night. The stifling heat keeps everyone indoors or poolside, before eventually hitting the dunes once it cools down.

The must-do is a dune buggy ride timed for sunset, with sandboarding off the big dunes. It’s harder than it looks, and most beginners end up sliding down on their butts. Ica is pisco country, so tour a vineyard before your evening dunes. If you’ve got cash to burn, paraglide or skydive over the sand. At night, the hostel bars fill up with backpackers. Eventually, they’ll migrate to one of the clubs in town, taking to the dance floors with no abandon knowing that they’ve got until sunset to nurse the hangover the next day.

Not much else going on in Huacachina, but it’s scenic simplicity makes for a relaxed stopover before the itinerary really gets going.

Getting there: take a bus to Ica, about an hour from Paracas or four from Lima, then a taxi or tuk-tuk to the oasis for S/ 10 max.

Where to stay: If you’re looking at a party, book the legendary Wild Rover, maybe the best in the chain. Otherwise look into Banana’s Adventure, which is pricier but includes an activity and also has a pool. I’ve stayed at both and you can’t go wrong with either.

Optional Detour: the Nazca Lines

A few hours south, small planes fly over the Nazca Lines, giant desert drawings whose origins are still a mystery. A half-hour flight over the Nazca Lines will run you around $125. That’s steep for a backpacker budget, but if you’ve got the dough, it’s undoubtedly worth it for a one-of-a-kind sight. We stopped to look at the lines from ground level, which admittedly, was not particularly impressive. It’s on the way to Arequipa, so it costs you half a day at most.

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Arequipa: 3 days, plus Colca Canyon

Arequipa is one of my favorite mid-sized cities in South America, and arguably home to the best food in Peru. The White City is built from pale volcanic sillar stone and surrounded by volcanoes. Plus, at 2,335 m it’s the perfect halfway point to adjust before Cusco.

Start at the Santa Catalina monastery, a colorful maze that feels like a historic city within the historic city. Go early, because the narrow labyrinth can get packed. Grab a queso helado on the Plaza de Armas, then walk 30 minutes to the Mirador de Yanahuara to watch sunset frame El Misti through white stone arches. Eat your way through rocoto relleno, pastel de papa and four-course menus for about S/ 10 at the Mercado Central. With a spare day, hike the carved quarries of the Ruta del Sillar or go rafting on the Río Chili. Nights start late: pregame at Wild Rover, then hit Calle San Francisco after 1 am.

Finally, leave at least two days for Colca Canyon. The 2-day trek kicks off at Cruz del Cóndor to hopefully catch a glimpse of the legendary Andean condor. After you’ve tried your luck, the trek begins, dropping into the canyon to the Sangalle oasis for a swim, and finishes with a sunrise climb of about 1,200 m out. That’s one way to kickstart your Machu Picchu training. The climb is brutal, but doable. Skip the 3-day version: it’s the same route with longer, emptier afternoons. A tour usually costs less than trying to DIY everything.

Getting there: This will be your first long overland journey of the trip. Catch an overnight bus from Ica or Nazca. Peruvian sleeper buses are comfortable, akin to a lie-flat seat on a first-class flight. You’ll arrive at the Terminal Terrestre and you can take a taxi or walk to your accommodation.

Where to stay: Arequipay Hostel for free breakfast, yoga, and the best value in town. Viajero Hostel also now has a chain in Arequpa as they continue their Latin America takeover. If you’ve stayed at one before, you know what to expect.

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Cusco: 5+ days

Cusco is my favorite city in South America. I’ve been four times, once for about ten weeks, and it still hasn’t been enough. I’d recommend staying anywhere from a week to a lifetime. The old Inca capital is all cobblestones, colonial churches built on Inca walls and mountain views, with one of the best backpacker scenes on the continent.

At 3,400 meters above sea level, spend your first two or three days taking it easy. The city’s steep, cobblestoned hills will humble you immediately. Keep the trekking light until you acclimatize. People-watch on the iconic Plaza de Armas, or walk up to the San Blas area, my favorite spot in the city for a coffee and slow morning. If you’re feeling ready to stretch those legs, climb 30 minutes to the ruins of Sacsayhuaman, whose giant stones will make you feel tiny. If you’re feeling good, pop over to Q’enqo, then follow the highway to Puka Pukara and Tambomachay, the crowds thinning as you go. Afterwards, hop on a bus back to wrap up a lesser-traveled ruins circuit.

Once you’ve acclimatized, do a rainbow mountain. Vinicunca (5,036 m) is the icon, but it’s brutal and busy. Palccoyo is the easy one. Pallay Punchu was my favorite, with jagged stripes and almost nobody there. Other great day trips include Laguna Humantay, Moray and the Maras salt pans, and the hidden gem of the horned fortress of Waqrapukara.

At night, Cusco is easily one of the best party cities in Peru, raging until 5 or 6 am at Chango, Mama Africa, or Mythology. Don’t rush into it, though. A cerveza Sol hits differently at high altitudes, and you might find yourself much drunker, and much quicker than usual.

Getting there: an overnight bus from Arequipa, or a one-hour flight from Lima. I’d recommend doing the overland route. It gives you more time to build up your acclimatization, as well as meet other travelers to do the treks with. All roads lead to Cusco, and you’ll see familiar faces at every corner. Cusco (and Machu Picchu) feels like a grand finale of sorts — the climax of your travels after all those overnight buses and pisco sours.

Where to stay: Viajero, formerly Kokopelli (starting to see a pattern here?), for a great social base right in the heart of town. Or climb up the hill to Loki and Wild Rover if you’re looking for a party atmosphere.

Save money: Pay for the boleto turístico (S/ 130 for 10 days, S/ 70 for students) which covers 16 sites, including Pisac and Ollantaytambo.

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Pisac: 2–3 days

Pisac stole my heart in a very unique way. It’s a slow, friendly market town in the Sacred Valley where most people stay longer than planned. A day trip doesn’t do it justice.

The ruins are the main event, and second only to Machu Picchu for me, thanks in part to the fraction of the crowds you’ll encounter at the World Wonder. Skip the tour and hike straight up from the plaza on Inca stairways for about an hour, then wander through four sets of ruins and sweeping terraces for hours without a tour group in sight. I’ve done it twice. Back in town, browse the market on the Plaza de Armas. It’s at its most sprawling on Sundays. The indigenous women pulling up in their traditional garb also adds a beautiful splash of color and culture. Then, grab a bite from one of the many charming restaurants or cafes before wandering out into the farmlands beneath the mountains.

For a lesser-known hike, head over to Kinsa Cocha — home to three lakes and a few alpacas — about 45 minutes away. It felt more like Iceland than Peru. Eat at El Tomillo, my cheap favorite, or grab a S/ 5 breakfast at the market.

Getting there: colectivos leave from Calle Puputi in Cusco, ~S/ 5 and will take about an hour.

Where to stay: Wolf Totem Steampunk Guesthouse, about a 15-minute walk outside of town, with great views and lots of dogs.

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Ollantaytambo: 2 days

Ollantaytambo is one of my favorite small towns in South America: narrow cobblestone streets, Inca water channels and mountains towering on every side. As the gateway to Machu Picchu it gets busy, but it still feels like a village.

Visit the fortress in the morning. It’s one of the most impressive ruins I’ve ever seen, and the site where Manco Inca beat the Spanish in battle. In the afternoon, hike the short, free trail up Pinkuylluna for views back across the town and the fortress, usually with a few local dogs tagging along. On the way from Cusco, stop at Chinchero, probably the most overlooked site on the boleto, and hike the old Inca road down to Urquillos. It’s about 10 km, mostly downhill, past waterfalls, with hardly another traveler on it.

Getting there: a colectivo from Calle Pavitos in Cusco (~S/ 10), or from Pisac via Urubamba for about S/ 6 total.

Where to stay: Inka King

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Machu Picchu: the (non-optional) 4–5 day detour

No matter how popular it gets, Machu Picchu is simply unthinkable to skip. For me, it just edges out Petra as the best of the New Seven Wonders. Not much else needs to be said, really.

If you are physically capable, the best way in is on foot. The Salkantay trek takes 4–5 days over a high pass and past turquoise Laguna Humantay, ending at the ruins. It was my first multi-day trek, it’s far cheaper than the Inca Trail, and you don’t need to book months ahead. The classic Inca Trail is four days and spectacular, but it’s pricey and permits sell out early. Short on time? Take the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes and go up the next morning.

The entry ticket is about S/ 150 and isn’t covered by the boleto. Daily tickets are capped, so book as soon as you know your dates. Wouldn’t want to travel all the way to Peru, trek through mountain passes and cloud forests, only to be turned away at the gates of the Incan citadel.

Quite the way to cap off the trip, hey? Machu Picchu feels like a great place to close out the itinerary, but keep on reading if you’ve got a little more time.

Where to next?

On to Bolivia: head to Puno on Lake Titicaca, a direct bus from Cusco. A 3-hour tour of the Uros floating islands, built entirely from totora reeds, costs about $10–20 if you book on the waterfront rather than online. It far exceeded my expectations. From there, it’s about three hours to the border and Copacabana, then on to La Paz. Count your days in Peru carefully. I once overstayed by one day because I forgot October has 31.

Back to Lima: fly from Cusco in about an hour, or break up the 24-hour bus ride in Ayacucho, a colonial city that almost no tourists visit. The Aguas Turquesas of Millpu are the highlight, and what would most likely sway you in that direction (if the season is right).

More on Peru

• My Top 27 Destinations of Peru
• One Month Northern Peru Itinerary
• The Ultimate Cusco Bucket List: 43 Things To Do