Ollantaytambo turned out to be one of my favorite little towns in Peru. Most travelers treat it solely as the jumping-off point for Machu Picchu, but if you give it a chance, you’ll find a town that has its own charming character. The cobblestone streets of the old Inca quarter are still threaded with original irrigation canals. Mighty ruins are visible from every corner. Even the food and cafe scene has quietly grown into something respectable. After paying the small village of Pisac in the Sacred Valley a visit, I decided that I needed to explore more of the villages just outside of Cusco. I visited Chinchero, Urubamba, Yucay, Urquillos, and a couple of others. However, most of these paled in comparison to Ollantaytambo.

Popular among travelers as the gateway to Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo is definitely much more set up as a tourist town. However, it is impossible to deny both its natural beauty and the beauty of its historic streets and architecture. Surrounded by mountains in every direction, the cobbled streets and tiled roofs of Ollantaytambo contrast to the lush scenery around it. The town is like a blast from the past. Take a quick hike up to the ruins of Ollantaytambo or Pinkuylluna and you will see what I mean. These will quickly become one of your favorite views in all of Peru. Although few ruins in the Sacred Valley truly rival Machu Picchu, the archaeological sites of Pisac and Ollantaytambo are the two places that come close.

Another perk of Ollantaytambo is that it is easily accessible to travelers. It is only a 10 soles colectivo ride from Cusco, or even cheaper depending on where in the Sacred Valley you currently are. It cost me 2 soles to get here from Urubamba, which was only a 6 soles ride from Cusco. Seriously, Sacred Valley hopping is a criminally underrated excursion while in Cusco. Check out my complete guide and itinerary on catching some of Cusco region’s lesser-visited gems.

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Table of Contents

• The Best Things To Do In Ollantaytambo
• Where To Stay in Ollantaytambo
• How To Get To Ollantaytambo
• More on Peru

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The Best Things To Do In Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo Archaeological Site

The cool thing about this archaeological site is that you can see it right from town. As usual, I had no idea what I was really getting myself into when I got onto the van to head for Ollantaytambo. I hopped off the colectivo in the Plaza de Armas of Ollantaytambo and was immediately greeted with these majestic terraced ruins. Ollantaytambo was already standing out and I hadn’t even checked in yet.

To get here, you just walk in the direction of the ruins situated at the edge of town and then enter. That sentence really wasn’t even necessary, was it? Seriously, the ruins are impossible to miss. Just walk towards them and you are there. Show them your touristic ticket or buy a ticket and then begin your exploration of this massive archaeological complex. Make sure to reach Inka Watana at the very top, as well. It is definitely a bit of a hike but it is worth it to see as much of these ruins as you can, and the panoramic views of the Sacred Valley is one of the best you’ll get.

One thing to note about the Ollantaytambo Archaeological Site was the entry fee. I’m a very slow-moving traveler, so even the 10-day comprehensive tourist ticket seemed like a lot despite its great value. You either pay 70 soles ($22) for a partial 2-day ticket or 130 soles ($40) for the complete ticket to all the sites for 10 days. Don’t get me wrong, $40 is worth the money if you manage to see all of the sites. Shit, on its own, Ollantaytambo itself might be worth that money.

But as a budget backpacker, there is something appealing about the free hike across town from the archaeological complex. It also boasts impressive Incan ruins and an unbeatable view of the city, valley, mountains, and Ollantaytambo’s archaeological site. And that hike is…

Pinkuylluna Ruins and Viewpoints

Pinkuylluna can be easily accessed right from Ollantaytambo town, with the entrance on Calle Lares. I did miss it the first two times because the more prominent sign on the entrance was about a pottery class or something. Pinkuylluna is open from 7:30 AM to 4:30 PM, which was quite frustrating because I had just settled at the top waiting for golden hour before the security started ushering us out.

No matter the time of day, the view is absolutely gorgeous. The Incan ruins also make for some beautiful framing for photos. With the clouds and mountains always changing the lighting, the view is ever-changing and you will inevitably take hundreds of photos.

Visit Qelloraqay Ruins (Free, Crowd-Free)

On the other edge of town, one will find the Qelloraqay ruins. Just a short walk from the town cemetery and overlooking the Urubamba River, Qelloraqay is a small Inca site that almost nobody visits. There’s no entry fee, no ticket required, and often no other tourists. The views of the valley are excellent. It’s a 10–15 minute walk from the plaza and makes for a good early morning wander before the main ruins open.

Wander Qosqo Ayllu, the Living Inca Quarter, and its Ancient Water Channels

North of the Plaza de Armas, a few narrow streets make up what’s considered one of the best-preserved Inca urban layouts still in use anywhere. The original stone walls are intact. The drainage canals running through the cobblestones still carry water. These were the highlight for me. They are beautiful to walk along and offer a sense of peace that likely has persisted throughout the centuries across countless civilizations.

What makes Qosqo Ayllu different from just looking at ruins is that people actually live here. It’s a working neighborhood, although it can feel like an open-air museum. Walk slowly, look at the stonework, and don’t rush it.

But before setting off to explore the majestic Valle Sagrada, make sure that you have a plan to stay connected. I use Saily eSIM to keep me online during my travels, ensuring that I have internet from the moment I land to the moment I leave. Figuring out directions, making travel plans with your new hostel friends, ordering a ride, having an eSIM makes life so much easier when you’re on the road. Data packages for Peru start at just $6, and you can use my code “eli5” for an additional 10% off of your first Saily eSIM.

The Open-Air Artisan Market

Just outside of Ollantaytambo’s Archaeological Complex is an open-air tourist market. I didn’t actually buy anything but I always love walking through these little markets. The setting is stunning, with the market stalls surrounded by the mountains and at the heels of a massive archaeological site. At the very least, it makes for a beautiful area for a walk and some photos.

Stop at ALQA, the Museo de Arte Popular Andino

ALQA is a small museum dedicated to Andean folk art, with rotating exhibitions of textiles, ceramics and traditional crafts. One room is free; the full collection requires a small entrance fee. It’s a beautifully curated space, and well worth checking out in between the hiking days and archaeological excursions. The attached garden bar is another reason to stop by in the evening. It’s one of the more relaxed places to have a drink in town, with decent cocktails and a pleasant outdoor space.

Eat at the Mercado Central

With Ollantaytambo being as touristy as it is, most of the restaurants will be over-priced and catering to gringos. In cases like this, especially when I’m on a budget, the local mercado is a godsend. Just a block away from the main plaza, the three-story market is full of everything you need if you want to stick to your budget. Fruits, vegetables, baked goods, grains, oats, lentils, you name it. If you don’t feel like cooking your own meals, the third floor is the dining area where you will find cheap lunch specials. I paid 6 soles (<$2) for one of the best mercado meals I’ve ever had, a delicious soup and aji de gallina, both generously portioned.

I came back to the market for dinner, but unfortunately, no one will be serving food at this time. However, just outside the market, you’ll find stalls selling big portions of food for cheap. Usually, it’ll be something like rice, noodles, French fries, and a piece of fried chicken for something like 5 soles. I also passed two restaurants offering dinner specials and a cheap Chifa place in this area so if you want to stick to a budget, the mercado area is still the spot to be.

Dinner (and a Distillery Tour) at El Albergue

El Albergue is a long-running restaurant and guesthouse built into the train station. It sounds like a gimmick but hey, I love trains so it worked on me. Trains pass alongside the terrace while you eat, and the food is pretty good: organic ingredients from the onsite farm, wood-fired cooking, strong cocktail list.

Ask about a tour of the Destilería Andina on the property, where they produce small-batch pisco and other spirits from local ingredients. It’s done informally by request and is a good addition to a dinner visit.

Day Hike to Pumamarca

North of town, up the Patacancha Valley, Pumamarka is a Quechua-era fort set in a dramatic mountain landscape that sees a fraction of the visitors the main ruins get. The trail is around 9 km return and takes most walkers 3–4 hours. You can take a colectivo partway to cut the uphill walk, or go on foot the whole way.

The valley itself is beautiful. You will walk past traditional villages, across agricultural terraces still in use, and breathe in that fresh Valle Sagrado air.

Hike to Ñaupa Iglesia (Hidden Cave Shrine)

This one is a true hidden gem in every sense of the word. Ñaupa Iglesia is a pre-Inca cave shrine carved into a cliffside above the Urubamba River, roughly 5 km east of Ollantaytambo along the valley. The site has a carved niche that archaeologists believe was a ritual space predating the Incas. The Spaniards later built a small Catholic chapel at the entrance (hence the name “old church”).

Getting there involves a roughly 2-hour return hike from the main road or a short taxi ride followed by a hike. The views from the cliff are exceptional. Most travelers don’t know this place exists, which means you’ll likely have it to yourself.

Walk to Machu Picchu

Because why the hell not? I did say Ollantaytambo was the gateway to Machu Picchu but most people opt for the more comfortable way of getting there. Train or bus will get you to Aguas Calientes. Or your feet can take you the 32 kilometers there yourself. Some people do this, and there are a number of hostels and campgrounds in Ollantaytambo catering exactly to this crowd. I wasn’t initially planning on visiting Machu Picchu a second time due to the cost, but if you make it to Ollantaytambo and walk to Aguas Calientes, then basically the only cost will be the $50 entrance ticket, as opposed to the pricy train ride.

If you don’t feel like knocking out the near-marathon to walk to Machu Picchu, you can take a colectivo to where most people start walking along the train tracks. This is a much more manageable 2-4 hour walk and you will still get a plethora of views along the way.

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Where To Stay in Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is a popular destination for travelers of all types, considering that it is a frequent stop for people coming to and from Machu Picchu. Because of this, there are a wide range of accommodation options. You can camp for a small cost at some hostels, or book a gorgeous property to treat yourself as a pre or post-hike treat. One of the best hostels in town is Inka King, with dorm beds starting at around $20. However, Ollantaytambo has plenty of hostels across various price ranges to choose from.

How To Get To Ollantaytambo

From Cusco, you can head down past San Pedro Market and walk a few blocks down to the intersection of Pavitos and Avenida Grau. If you have Maps.Me, look up Combis to Ollantaytambo. It will cost you 10 soles or $3, making it a very affordable day trip or multi-day trip. I’d recommend staying at least a day or two here.

If you are coming from elsewhere in the Sacred Valley, you’ll likely be able to catch one or a combination of colectivos to Ollantaytambo. From Urubamba, a colectivo is only 2 soles, or about 60 cents. If you are in Pisac or Calca or Yucay or Chinchero, you will pass through Urubamba so catch a colectivo heading that way then catch one from Urubamba to Ollantaytambo.

You can also take guided tours if you are short on time, but I recommend against it. They are quite expensive for something that you can totally do on your own and at your own pace. A guided tour of the Sacred Valley is normally around 150 soles, not including the 70 or 130 soles ticket to enter the sites. From Cusco, you can find your own transportation to the main sites of Pisac, Moray, and Ollantaytambo for about 20-25 soles total roundtrip and spend as little or as much time as you want in each place. If you are like me, it’ll be closer to as much time as you want.

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