Albania is officially on the map, y’all. Previously one of the most overlooked travel destinations in Europe, Albania is taking the travel industry by storm. From its pristine beaches to its rugged mountains, charming villages and friendly people, Albania arguably has it all. Having only opened up to the world in 1991 after an isolationist regime, Albania has yet to be jaded by overcrowding and mass tourism. It is one of Europe’s last hidden gems, and a must-visit destination for an off-the-beaten-path backpacker.

While there is a lot to do in this small country, here is how I would spend two weeks in Albania. This itinerary will give a first-time visitor to Albania a taste of everything the country has to offer, from its turquoise waters, epic hiking trails, and unique cultural experiences.

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Saranda: 2 Days

Welcome to Albania! Let’s get started in the coastal city of Saranda. It lies in the south of the country, making for a good kick-off point for any travelers heading south-to-north, especially those taking the ferry from Corfu. If you’re traveling north to south, just read from the bottom up ;).

Your first day in Saranda can be spent walking along the city’s boardwalk and enjoying the vibes of this laid-back seaside city. If you’re up for something more adventurous, you can book an island-hopping tour and visit a few of the beaches and islands only accessible by boat. The city of Saranda itself doesn’t have too much to do, but it’s a great home base for exploring the nearby attractions. Catch the sunset from one of the many beach bars, or if you’re up for a hike, make the walk (or taxi) up to Lekures Castle for sunset.

In town, I stayed at Wallaby Hostel with a gorgeous view from its large rooftop.

Day Trip to Butrint National Park and Ksamil

From Saranda, the two nearby sites I would recommend visiting are Butrint and Ksamil. It’s easy to visit Butrint National Park and Ksamil on the same day using local transportation from Saranda’s center. Butrint National Park is an archaeological site home to ruins from numerous civilizations, from the early Illyrians to the Romans and beyond. One can spend a few hours exploring its ruins and taking in the views of the waters and mountains that surround the site.

Catch the bus back towards Saranda, making a stop at the beach town of Ksamil. It is home to many beachside bars and restaurants, perfect for lounging and soaking in the last few hours of sun while taking in the views of the endless sea and towering mountains in the distance. Hang around for sunset before heading back to Saranda.

Once you’ve had your fill of the sea, it’s time to experience a more cultural side of Albania.

Gjirokaster: 2 Days

A city of all-white architecture nestled in the mountains, the village of Gjirokaster is a sight to behold. Gjirokaster is historic, charming, and filled with personality. The one-of-a-kind architecture, highlighted by its stone roofs unique to Gjirokaster, makes it a must-visit destination of Albania. Roofs? Really, Eli? That’s how you’re going to try to sell Gjirokaster to me? Okay fine, there is a lot more to Gjirokaster than its stone roofs, which by the way, weigh several thousand pounds, and are built in a style so unique that only two masters of the art are still alive today.

Take a walking tour of the old city, guiding you through its cobblestone alleyways, charming markets, abandoned bunkers, and an abundance of beautiful viewpoints. There are also a few traditional houses in Gjirokaster open to visitors. Zekate House and the Skenduli House are the two most popular ones. A visit gives a good insight on Gjirokaster’s history, with many houses dating back to the Ottoman period or prior.

The second day can be spent road tripping through the stunning countryside around the city. Some highlights include waterfalls, Byzantine ruins, churches, and gorgeous panoramic views of the mountains. I organized a road trip with the owner of Stone City Hostel and he absolutely knocked it out of the park with a one-of-a-kind itinerary. The hostel itself is amazing, and remains one of my favorites in the world.

From Gjirokaster, continue north to Berat.

Berat: 2 Days

Berat is a historic town that looks unlike any other I’ve been to. On one side of the river, you’ll find a typical city with modern architecture and paved roads. On the other side, historic buildings layered atop one another with thousands of windows looking out across the river. A singular rolling, green hill serves as the backdrop to this unique town. Use the first day to wander through the old town’s cobbled roads, and then hike up to Berat Castle for some panoramic views at sunset.

The next day, it’s time to dive into some nature. Take a day trip to take a swim in the Bogove Waterfalls, catch some views of Osum Canyon, and then drop down into the river where you can lazily float down while flanked by towering canyons. I organized the trip with the owner of Berat Backpackers, although you can also book a tour online.

From Berat, head further up the country to Albania’s capital city.

Tirana: 1 Day

Despite being the capital and largest city of Albania, there is not much to do in Tirana itself. There are the two BunkArt galleries located inside old wartime bunkers, the Skanderbeg Square, and a few museums, but that’s about it. Tirana is fun for nightlife and has a number of good restaurants, but during the day, you’ll find little to fill your time.

If you are on a fast-paced itinerary, I would recommend skipping Tirana. However, it is a big transportation hub to anywhere in the country, so if you have to stay a night before catching a morning bus, it’s not the worst thing in the world. If you have time, I’d recommend taking a day trip to Kruja, which can easily be done within a few hours.

Day Trip to Kruja from Tirana

The village of Kruja is about an hour away from Tirana and easily accessible by the local shared minibuses. The highlights of Kruja are its castle (surprise), the old bazaar, and a beautiful hike up into the mountains to the shrine of a whirling dervish. One can easily catch a bus from Tirana and see the main attractions in about 3-5 hours, making it the perfect day trip from Albania’s capital.

Once you’re back in Tirana, continue onwards to Shkoder, the gateway to a completely different side of Albania.

Shkoder: 1 Day

Shkoder was my favorite “big” city of Albania. It has a charming old town, beautiful surroundings, and great restaurants and nightlife. Many people consider it simply as the gateway to the Albanian Alps, but I’d say it’s much more than that. Be sure to visit the Rozafa Castle. It’s particular gorgeous at sunset, with incredible views of everything you can imagine. Lakes, rivers, the city, mountains in the backdrop, it is *chef’s kiss*.

I had a fairly fast-paced itinerary through Albania, but if I had more time, I would have happily spent a few more days in Shkoder. If you do decide to spend another day in Shkoder, rent a bike and cycle around Lake Shkoder. There are some charming villages to rest your legs or stop by for a meal. It’s a good warm-up for the hiking that is to come. Use Shkoder to stock up on cash, hiking snacks, and anything else you might need to be off the grid for a few days.

I stayed at The Wanderer’s Hostel and absolutely loved it. The staff is really helpful and will happily organize your entire Valbona to Theth trek for you, including all the transportation to accommodation. I highly recommend doing this as it is much, much easier than trying to sort it all out yourself.

Valbona to Theth: 3 Days

Welcome to the Albanian Alps. I didn’t even know these existed when I arrived in the country. To be fair, I rarely ever have a plan or research in advance, but regardless, the Albanian Alps were a breathtaking surprise. The entire journey there is jaw-dropping, from the boat ride through the canyons to the bus ride weaving along the narrow mountain roads.

You’ll arrive in the village of Valbona where you’ll rest your head for the night before taking on the trek to Theth tomorrow. If you arrive early enough, it’s possible to explore some of the nearby hiking trails to get a warm up.

Get an early start the next morning and begin the trek. It’ll take you through cute farms, tranquil forests, and more. All the while, the mountains loom ever closer before you reach a gorgeous mountain pass and begin the descent into Theth. The village of Theth is fairly small, so it shouldn’t be hard to find your accommodation. You can even arrange for them to pick you up at the end of the trail to save you a few kilometers of walking on tired legs. For a full guide on the Valbona to Theth hike, check out my other post here.

On the third day, squeeze in a detour to the Blue Eye. It’s a gorgeous hike along a river flanked by mountains, before ending at a small waterfall. Dive in to the vibrant blues, but be warned, it is absolutely freezing. You’ll be back in Theth in time for the afternoon bus back to Shkoder or Tirana.

Before trekking through this gem of the Balkans, make sure you have a plan for staying connected. I use Saily eSIM to keep me online during my travels, ensuring that I have internet from the moment I set foot in a country. From navigating directions, coordinating travel plans with new hostel friends, booking a ride, and so on – having an eSIM simply makes life that much easier when you’re on the road. Data packages for Albania start at just $3, and you can use my code “eli5” for an additional 5% off of your first Saily eSIM.

Need a few chill days after all that hiking? Never fear, we’re heading back to the coast, and there are no shortage of options.

Back to the Coast: 2 Days

Close your trip off with some more beach time along Albania’s stunning coastline. The closest coastal city to Shkoder or Tirana is Durres. The beach there is gorgeous, but it is definitely more popular and more crowded. Although it’ll be more of a journey to get to, the small towns of Himara, Vlora, and Dhermi are more peaceful and perfect for a relaxing beach getaway.

Once you’ve had your fill of the coast, head back to Tirana to fly to your next destination, or continue your travels through the Balkans and beyond. Montenegro is a short ride away, and remains another less-traveled gem of Europe.

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If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.

More Posts on Albania

• The Backpacker’s Crash Course To Traveling Albania
• The Backpacker’s Guide to Gjirokaster
• The Backpacker’s Guide to Berat
• The Backpacker’s Guide to Saranda
• The Backpacker’s Guide to Shkoder
• The Complete Guide to Albania’s Valbona to Theth Hike
• Guide to Visiting Kruja on a Day Trip From Tirana