Turquoise glacial lakes, hardened eagle hunters, exhilarating horseback treks, and dramatic landscapes like you’ve never seen — this is Kyrgyzstan, and this is how to do it in 14 days.
Kyrgyzstan doesn’t show up on most people’s travel radars. When I told people I was going, the reception I received was less of an “oh my god, that’s awesome” and closer to “uhh, bless you?” Perhaps, that is exactly what compelled me to go. Even as it grows in popularity, there is still a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of tourists visiting Kyrgyzstan compared to other hiking hotspots. It is just you and the rugged mountain scenery, immersed in the nomadic culture that is still very much alive. Beyond being a high-scoring Scrabble word, Kyrgyzstan is a country so breathtaking and welcoming that you’ll kick yourself if you wait any longer to visit. I know I did.
This two-week itinerary covers the best of Kyrgyzstan, especially for a first-time visitor. In reality, I spent closer to a month in Kyrgyzstan, and my best advice is to not rush things. Take it slow, soak it in and inhale that pristine mountain air. There is a lot to see in Kyrgyzstan, and its primitive infrastructure makes every step of the way a challenge. Don’t do too much. If you have two or three weeks in Kyrgyzstan, this is what I would do, — from its capital city of Bishkek to the remote alpine paradise of Kel Suu Lake near the Chinese border. This Kyrgyzstan backpacking itinerary offers a good balance of trekking, nomadic culture, and a horseback adventure that you’ll be telling your grandkids about someday. I took on Kyrgyzstan as a solo backpacker on a budget, so this itinerary is designed with that in mind. However, it still works well even if you’ve got a group, a guide, a rental car, a driver, a private jet, whatever.
Let’s dive into it.
Kyrgyzstan Itinerary: At a Glance
| Duration | 2-3 weeks |
| Best Season | June to September (peak is July and August) |
| Approximate Budget | $25 to $50 per day |
| Visa | Visa-free for Americans (up to 60 days) |
| Currency | Kyrgyz Som (KGS). Cash-only outside cities |
| Permits Needed | Border permit for Kel Suu (apply a week in advance) |
| Language | Kyrgyz + Russian. English is limited outside tourist hubs |
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Bishkek: 2 Days
How To Get To Bishkek
Bishkek’s Manas International Airport is the main entry point for Kyrgyzstan. Flights typically fly from Istanbul, Dubai, Moscow, Seoul, and Almaty, although a growing number of European cities are hopping on the Kyrgyzstan hype train. From the airport into the city, order a Yandex (the local equivalent of Uber) to avoid being overcharged by the drivers waiting outside arrivals.
If you’re coming from Kazakhstan, the bus from Almaty’s Sayran Bus Station takes around 5 hours and costs roughly $6–7. With Almaty being a bigger travel hub, it might even be cheaper to fly into Almaty and travel overland to Bishkek. This is what I did, although I spent over three weeks in Almaty in between. If your bus ends up taking forever to go through customs, like mine did, consider hopping on a public local bus to Bishkek, which costs about 60 cents.
Where to Stay in Bishkek
I stayed at OloloYurt which was a great hostel, although a bit further from the action. It was about a 30 minute walk from the main hubs of the city, although the quiet setting was perfect for co-working or winding down after a long trek. Plenty of new hostels are popping up so backpackers are spoiled for choice these days. The Apple Hostel was a backpacker staple for meeting other travelers, although admittedly, falling behind in terms of facilities and modernity.
Despite the growing number of options, be sure to book your hostel in advance as tourism to Kyrgyzstan continues to grow faster than its infrastructure can keep up. This goes for all the destinations on this list.
Best Things To Do in Bishkek
Two days in Bishkek is enough to get your bearings and tick off the highlights without overstaying. The city is much more pleasant than its Soviet-era reputation suggests. I loved the wide, tree-lined boulevards, vibrant cafe culture, and an underground nightlife scene that genuinely surprised me.
- Ala-Too Square: the main central square, flanked by the State History Museum. Worth an hour or two to understand Kyrgyz history, from ancient nomadic culture through Soviet rule to independence.
- Osh Bazaar: One of Central Asia’s great markets. Go hungry. Stock up on dried fruits, nuts, and spices for the trail. Be sure to try qurut, the dried horse cheese that became a staple hiking snack for me.
- Ala Archa National Park: an hour away from the city by public bus. A perfect introduction the mountains of Kyrgyzstan. The hike to the Ak-Sai waterfalls is the most popular.
- Nightlife: The very first thing I did in Bishkek was head to a beer garden. Literally, the traffic was so bad that I got off, met up with some friends at a beer garden, and made the lengthy travel day from Almaty even longer. No regrets. Bishkek has a great nightlife scene. A personal favorite bar of mine is Obshestvo.
Next Stop: Bokonbayevo
Marshrutkas and shared taxis to Bokonbayevo depart from Avtovokzal Station. The journey takes around 5 hours and follows the southern shore of Issyk-Kul. Budget around 400–600 KGS for a shared taxi seat, less for the marshrutka. Actually, scratch that. Your nationality will dictate how much they charge, anyway. You’ll have to wait until the shared transport fills up, which tends to be faster in the mornings.
Another option is to take the fancy train from Bishkek to Balykchy. From Balykchy, marshrutkas and shared taxis sit at the ready to travel along the south side of Issyk Kul Lake. It will take another three hours before you reach Bokonbayevo.
Bokonbayevo: 2 Days
Bokonbayevo sits on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul, the second-largest alpine lake in the world!! I prefer the southern side of the lake, and Bokonbayevo is an excellent home base. Beyond its proximity to amazing hiking trails and beautiful beaches, it also serves as the cultural heart of the region. The town itself is not all that exciting. It is small and there is not much going on in the center. However, the surrounding area is where things get interesting.
Where to Stay in Bokonbayevo (Tong)
Rather than staying in Bokonbayevo, I would recommend staying in Tong. I stayed at Ak Ilbirs Guesthouse and can’t recommend them enough. The only downside is that it is in a secluded area far from town, so you will need taxis to go to and from Ak Ilbirs every time. However, the location puts you within a short walk of a beautiful beach. The scenery here is gorgeous, and it really makes you feel like you’re out in the wilds of Kyrgyzstan rather than another underwhelming Soviet city.
What to Do in Bokonbayevo
- Skazka Canyon (Fairytale Canyon): one of the most surreal landscapes in Kyrgyzstan, and often over-shadowed by the country’s snowy mountain ranges. The red, brown, and yellow cliffs have been eroded into formations that look otherworldly. You can easily spend a few hours exploring every nook and cranny of this canyon.
- Eagle Hunting Demonstration: the Kyrgyz tradition of hunting with trained golden eagles is one of those experiences that sounds touristy, and yes, the performance is staged, but it was still extremely fascinating. The berkutchi, or eagle hunters, are locals who have been doing this for centuries, and picking their brains about the art was a great experience. A demonstration can be arranged through your guesthouse for around $50–60 per group.
- Swim in Issyk-Kul: the lake is cold but swimmable in summer, and where else can you swim with a backdrop of snow-capped peaks?
Getting to Karakol from Bokonbayevo
Marshrutkas and shared taxis run frequently along the southern shore toward Karakol. The journey takes around two to three hours from Bokonbayevo.
Karakol: 1 Day ( Ala-Kul Trek Prep Day)
Karakol is the outdoor capital of Kyrgyzstan. To be honest, I was expecting more from the country’s second-largest city, but I grew to enjoy it. It is a small, unpretentious city that has transformed in recent years into a bustling backpacker hub. Aside from a couple of wooden churches and mosques, there isn’t much to do, but it’s a functional, friendly base with everything you need before heading into the mountains.
Where to Stay in Karakol
Karakol Based Hostel is the go-to for trekkers. It is well-run, social, and just five minutes from what can be called the city center. KBH is a great place to meet other hikers to embark on a grand adventure with, and split costs, of course. Book ahead in peak season. I also had a fantastic stay at Duet Hostel. They have a whiteboard where people can coordinate travel plans, and their restaurant is unironically one of the best in the city for both Western and Kyrgyz food.
What to Do on Your Prep Day
- Sunday Animal Market: if you happen to arrive on a Sunday, don’t miss this. It’s one of Kyrgyzstan’s largest animal markets: horses, cows, sheep, goats changing hands in organized chaos. Most action is done by 10 AM, so get there early.
- Dungan Mosque: a Chinese-influenced wooden mosque built without nails, one of Karakol’s most photogenic spots.
- Stock up at the bazaar: snacks, instant noodles, dried fruit, anything you want for the trail. This is your last reliable resupply point before Ala Kul.
- Sort your gear: sleeping bag, trekking poles, crampons if needed. KBH, Eco-Trek, Duet Hostel, and other hostels and agencies nearby can rent most things. Altitude on the Ala Kul pass hits 3,860m, so bring layers.
Getting to the Ala Kul Trailhead
Taxis from Karakol to the entrance of the national park cost around 500–800 KGS. Your hostel can help arrange this.
Oh, and before you go…
It’s always a good idea to have travel insurance handy. My go-to is SafetyWing, with plans catering to adventurous backpackers and long-term digital nomads alike.
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Their plans start at just $2 a day — backpackers, rejoice — and Kyrgyzstan is among the 170+ countries that SafetyWing covers.
Days 6–9: Ala Kul Trek (3–4 Days)
The Ala Kul trek is one of the best multi-day hikes in Central Asia. It is the most popular excursion from Karakol and is pretty much what most travelers are here for. There are many different ways to do it, but the classic itinerary spans four days, departing from Karakol and ending in the village of Ak-Suu.
The trek can be done unguided. I packed a tent, sleeping bag, and food for a few days and was thriving. Including the rental gear, I spent less than $80. You can also sleep at yurts or pre-arranged tents at a (steep) price. Doing so would have been much easier, but will cost upwards of $200 for a marginally warmer and more comfortable stay. I get into all of that in the video above, as well as my complete guide to trekking Ala Kul solo.
On to the next.
Getting to Kyzart from Karakol
There is no real easy destinatino to get to from Karakol, so just plan on a rough travel day regardless. Maybe spend another day or two in Karakol recovering, or split this travel day up into one or two.
I enjoyed a detour to Jeti Oguz to shorten the journey a bit, and others have recommended Barskoon as another pitstop. Whatever you choose, just backtrack your way towards Bishkek. You might need to make a transfer at Bokonbayevo or Balykchy, but ask to get off at Kochkor. From here, find transport to Kyzart, either by taxi or catching a marshrutka headed in that direction.
Days 10 to 12: Song Kul Lake (3-Day Horseback Trek)
Song Kul is the crown jewel of Kyrgyzstan, and doing it on horseback from Kyzart is the definitive way to experience it. The lake sits at 3,016 metres above sea level, surrounded by vast summer pastures where nomadic families have been setting up their yurts every June for centuries. There are no roads that feel like roads, no phone signal, and at night, a sky so full of stars you’ll feel slightly ridiculous for spending money on a flight here when you could have just done this.
The horseback trek from Kyzart to Song Kul takes two days to get there and one day to get back. Luckily, it’s a circuit so the scenery stays unique throughout. You’ll be crashing in nomadic yurts and feasting on traditional Kyrgyz food along the way. You don’t need riding experience, although as a beginner, I will say it does take a while to build confidence with the horses. My mistake with my horse, Bereke, was that I felt bad telling it what to do. Eventually, it never listened to me, which led to a few nervous situations where it would ignore the human on its back and gallop to greener pastures.
All in all, it was quite the experience. I don’t know if I would do it again, but it was fun to try. I really enjoyed the yurt camps and surreal scenery, but if I were to visit again, I might even consider just walking up to the lake. We met some hippies that had lugged several musical instruments down from Kyzart all the way up to Song Kul, so it is definitely an option, even if not many people opt for that route.
Here is my full guide to taking on the three-day horseback trek to Song Kul Lake.
Getting to Naryn from Kyzart
From Kyzart or Kochkor, shared taxis and marshrutkas run south to Naryn throughout the day. The journey takes around 4 hours and costs around 500 KGS. Naryn is a mid-sized city with plenty of guesthouses, a CBT (Community Based Tourism) office, and everything you need for the final section of the trip.
Day 13: Naryn (Permit Pickup and Rest Day)
Naryn won’t be the highlight of your trip. The entire city felt like it was under construction when I was there. It’s a functional city in a dramatic mountain valley, and its main purpose in this itinerary is as the base for Kel Suu logistics. I did not arrange my Kel Suu Lake permit in advance, so I had far too much time to increasingly loathe Naryn, so avoid making the same mistake as me. Although, who knows, maybe all the construction is done and the infrastructure has improved.
Where to Stay in Naryn
I stayed at Guesthouse URUYAT which was pretty standard. The value was good. I can’t say much for other places in Naryn, as I’ve heard they all seem to just be places to rest your head and nothing else.
Key Tasks for Your Naryn Day
- Pick up your Kel Suu border permit from the CBT Naryn office (apply online well before arriving to Naryn)
- Arrange your 4×4 transport to Kel Suu. There is no public transport to the Kok Kiya Valley. You need to either hire a private driver (170 euros roundtrip, ideally split with others).
- Find other travelers to split costs with. CBT Naryn will not help you with this, as the evil boss lady working there only cares about money. She will lie to your face saying no one wants to share, despite meeting plenty of other travelers the next day who indeed were also looking to split the costs. Ask at your guesthouse, post in Kyrgyzstan travel Facebook groups, or check Reddit. Splitting a 4×4 between 3–4 people makes Kel Suu much more affordable.
- If you’ve got time, pay a visit to Tash Rabat, a well-preserved Silk Road era caravanserai.
Days 14–15: Kel Suu Lake and Kok-Kiya Valley
About Kel Suu Lake
Kel Suu is one of those places that makes you feel like you’ve found something the rest of the world hasn’t caught up to yet. The lake sits at 3,514 metres in the Kok Kiya Valley, hemmed in by jagged limestone cliffs that plunge straight into water so turquoise it looks photoshopped. It was very reminiscent of Attabad Lake in Northern Pakistan, one of my favorite landscapes I’ve encountered in my travels.
Getting to Kel Suu Lake is an adventure in itself. The drive from Naryn takes 3 or 4 hours on a highway that is more of a suggestion than a road, through wide valleys full of yaks, horses, and marmots, past military checkpoints where you’ll show your permit and passport before finally, the stunning Kok-Kiya Valley. Okay, well, maybe an hour or two in between the checkpoint and Kok-Kiya, but the drive is gorgeous. The rolling red hills give you a glimpse of what to expect on the trek to Kel Suu.
Where to Stay in Kel Suu
Several yurt camps operate in the Kok Kiya Valley, typically open from mid-June through late September. The CBT at Naryn arranged accommodation for me, although the two Aussies I shared the ride with were able to book someplace online.
Hiking to Kel Suu Lake
The hike takes about 4-6 hours roundtrip, depending on your pace and how frequently you stop to take in the surreal scenery. I truly believe this might have been the prettiest place I saw in Kyrgyzstan. Beyond the lake itself, the rolling red hills and wide-open grasslands were unlike anything I’d seen in Central Asia. The dramatic mountain scenery, snow-capped summits, and pristine river were all worthy second-fiddles to the jaw-dropping Kel Suu Lake.
For my complete guide to Kel Suu Lake, check here.
Getting Back to Bishkek
Return the same way. Your 4×4 driver will take you back to Naryn, and from there marshrutkas and shared taxis run north to Bishkek. The journey takes around 6 to 7 hours. Or longer. Mountain transport is scenic but rarely punctual.
And that is all I got for you! I’ll be back soon to explore the southern regions of Kyrgyzstan, specifically Osh, the Sary Mogul Pass, and whatever else catches my fancy along the way! Central Asia is a region that I see myself coming back to time and time again, so stay tuned to see more adventures from here.
Buy Me A Beer!
If this post helped you out, please show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated. It allows me to keep writing travel guides to help you all travel the world on a budget.