Tajikistan is arguably the most underrated country in Central Asia. While adventurous travelers have started flocking in droves to the mountains of Kyrgyzstan and the Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan, Tajikistan humbly flies under the radar. The best example of this that I encountered was a trek through the Fann Mountains. For four days, I hiked through some of Central Asia’s most beautiful, pristine landscapes rarely running into another traveler along the way.
I camped alongside the Kulikalon Lakes, sharing its vast shores with no more than three or four other campers. I stood atop mountain passes, able to gaze for miles in every direction without seeing another human. It was as wild of a trekking experience as I’ve ever been on. And solitude aside, the scene along the trek were beyond stunning. Dozens of glacial lakes were scattered across the Kulikalon Basin. Massive glaciers nestled atop reddish mountains served as their dramatic backdrop. Central Asia has no shortage of incredible trekking destinations, but the Fann Mountains have been my favorite thus far.
Trust me, Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains are not to be overlooked. There are many ways to mix and match an itinerary through the Fann Mountains, but the four-day loop I did from the Kulikalon Basin to Alauddin Lake and back turned out to be excellent. It’s a great option for travelers looking to escape into the mountains, but don’t have the time, confidence, or desire to embark on a lengthy, self-sufficient, high-altitude expedition to Iskenderkul Lake. This route offers the perfect mix of landscapes and is much more accessible to hikers of all levels. Here is everything to know before solo trekking the Fann Mountains.
Table of Contents
- How To Get To The Fann Mountains
- Preparing For A Fann Mountains Trek
- Day by Day Breakdown of the Kulikalon Lakes Loop
- Closing Thoughts on Fann Mountains Trek
- Buy Me A Beer!
- More on Central Asia
This post contains affiliate links. That means that I may earn a commission if you purchase through one of these links.
How To Get to the Fann Mountains
The Fann Mountains span a small part of Western Tajikistan close to the country’s border with Uzbekistan. They are separate from the Pamir Mountains that cover the vast majority of the country. There are a couple of different starting points for trekkers seeking to spend time here. A common starting point is Artuch, which is also where we ended up starting and ending our journey. To reach Artuch, there are marshrutkas (shared minibuses) that depart from Panjakent in the morning. Alternatively, you can find some people to split the cost of a shared taxi or private transport. We paid 60 somoni for the marshrutka on the way there and then arranged for a driver to pick us up upon returning to Artuch.
Preparing for a Fann Mountains Trek
No matter how experienced you are, a trek in this remote region of Tajikistan will require preparation. From where to rent camping gear to mapping out your route, here’s all you will need to know.
Renting Equipment in Panjakent
Traveling without your own camping gear? No problem. We were able to rent gear from Salom Hostel in Panjakent at a reasonable price. The daily rates were 15 somoni for a sleeping mat, 30 somoni for a sleeping bag, and 90 somoni for a tent that could have comfortably fit up to 3 people. Between my girlfriend and I, it worked out to 90 somoni each per day, or about $10 USD. The gear was pretty good quality, but make sure to test out the equipment before you set off. Salom Hostel also rents out camping stoves, and sells gas, freeze-dried meals, and a few other camping essentials.
Artuch Alplager also has gear available for rent, although at a more expensive rate than at Salom Hostel. The only time this would work out in your favor is if you don’t plan on backtracking to Panjakent afterwards.
Do You Need A Guide For This Trek?
We took on the trek solo. Since we were pretty set on doing the trek independently, we didn’t really look at the rates for guided treks. Aside from a few other independent trekkers, the majority of people that we saw up there were part of a guided group. I’ll admit, I did occasionally envy their cushier setup, especially as we struggled with heavy backpacks and the bare minimum in terms of other gear. Porters, donkeys, trekking poles, those seats that you strap to your butt so you don’t have to sit on the ground… They were living large compared to us.
Of course, it’s much more expensive than doing the trek on your own. I’d still recommend looking into it if you aren’t confident in your hiking ability and don’t have much experience being self-sufficient in the wild.
Offline Map For the Fann Mountains
The trail is pretty easy to follow. We didn’t get lost at any point as the trail is clear and well-worn. For any doubts, be sure to download an offline map of Tajikistan on Maps.Me. It was very accurate for the trail we did, even getting elevation gains and estimated times pretty spot on.
Food Along the Way
I was surprised by the infrastructure that could be found along the trek. Food can be reliably found in Artuch and the Artuch Base Camp before starting the trek. In the Kulikalon Basin, there are two choykhanas about five minute away from each other that can provide food. Along Alauddin Lake, there are a handful of guesthouses and restaurants where you can buy food.
We weren’t aware of this, so we instead packed enough food supplies for 4 or 5 days. In hindsight, we could have brought much less considering that we encountered a chaikhana each day of the trek. Lunch and snacks are essential, but you could have breakfast and dinner at the chaikhanas or buy snacks to supplement your rations.
In our case, we didn’t carry gas or a camping stove so all our meals were sad and solely meant to fill us up. The large round loaves of bread, a bunch of dried sausages, canned tuna were the main courses, and a variety of nuts, dried fruits, qurut, granola, and candies rounded out our food. We picked everything up across Panjakent’s many supermarkets and bazaars.
Water Sources in the Fann Mountains
One of the best parts of the trek was how plentiful the water sources are. You’ll be hiking along the river for most of days one and four. Camping by the lakes every night provides a reliable water supply. On the grueling climbs on days two and three, there were natural springs every hour or two. Some of the chaikhanas also have bottled water. Otherwise, a water filter is a must. The Sawyer Squeeze has served me well throughout the years.
Travel Insurance for Tajikistan
Oh, and before you go…
It’s always a good idea to have travel insurance handy. My go-to is SafetyWing, with plans catering to adventurous backpackers and long-term digital nomads alike.
Accidents happen, and unplanned circumstances are almost inevitable when traveling. Maybe something can ruin your trip, but don’t let it ruin your life. From travel delays to scooter crashes, SafetyWing’s Essential Plan covers travel and medical emergencies, with add-on options for adventure sports and electronics theft.
Their plans start at just $2 a day — backpackers, rejoice — and Tajikistan is among the 170+ countries that SafetyWing covers.
Fann Mountains Lakes Loop: Day-by-Day Itinerary
This is my day-by-day itinerary for the Fann Mountains trek. We spent four days in total, including getting to and from Panjakent.
Day One: Panjakent to Artuch, Artuch to Kulikalon Lakes
Travel From Panjakent to Artuch
The night before we left, we arranged for the marshrutka to pick us up at the bus stop closest to Salom Hostel. Zafar sent a message to the driver to make sure he’d stop for us. Shortly after 8 AM, the marshrutka stopped to pick us up and we were on our way to Artuch. It took a little over two hours to reach the final stop of Yakhakhona, about 5 kilometers short of the Artuch Alplager Guesthouse.
Hiking or Taxiing from Artuch to Artuch Alplager Base Camp
From here, you can continue your journey to the trailhead by walking, which will add about two hours to the journey. There might also be a taxi waiting around who will offer to take you up to Artuch Alplager for 200 somoni. Although quite expensive by Tajikistan’s standards for a 30-minute drive, we decided it was worth it. Otherwise, we might be starting the day too late and not make it to the lakes early enough for a post-hike afternoon swim.
Hike from Alplager Base Camp to Kolikalon Lakes
We started the trek just before noon. The first stretch was fairly flat, taking us alongside a river for about an hour. As you proceed deeper into the valley, you will find a handful of guesthouses, campsites, and teahouses nestled along its banks. These establishments didn’t show up online but are a great alternative to Artuch Alplager, which, quite frankly, is overpriced for what it is.
The trail soon separates from the river and opens up to a rocky, shadeless valley. Best of all, it also gets steep! It’s an unpleasant double whammy. For this section, I just kept my head down, blared some Central Asian bangers, and trudged along. At the end of this initial climb is a lush, green meadow. You will also reunite with the river, making it perfect for a water break and a snack. The first glimpses of snow-capped peaks also serve as great motivation to keep going. There will be a short break from the incline as the trail flattens out for a bit, but it’s not long before the climb begins once more.
All in all, it’s about an hour of flat hiking and two hours of incline before you reach the Kulikalon Basin. Once you reach the basin, it’s up to you where to camp. There are so many options and so many lakes to choose from. We chose to camp alongside the main lake, hiking another 20 minutes from the pass to reach a nice spot along the shore.
Alternatively, if you didn’t bring your own food, you can camp near the teahouses. They have food, snacks, and drinks. You can find it on Maps.Me as Siroj’s Chaykhona in between the lakes of Kuli Siyoh and Bibijonat. Chaykhona “U Edika” is another ten minutes further along Bibijonat Lake. I didn’t try the food, but the setting right along the lake is perfect for a cup of tea or a beer.
We took advantage of the solitude of our campsite for a late-afternoon skinny dip before digging into our rations and nestling into the tent. The tail-end of a meteor shower served as a surprise highlight of the day, and we slept with the tent’s tarp off, dealing with the cold in exchange for a steady stream of shooting stars.
Day Two: Kulikalon Lake to Alauddin Lake
The scenery as we began our day was nothing short of spectacular. The morning light on the lake’s still waters made for a perfect reflection. We packed up camp along these mirror images of the Fann Mountains and set out shortly after 8 AM. There was no shortage of photo breaks as we passed by lakes big and small, eventually reaching the teahouse situated along two lakes. Needing a caffeine boost, I ordered a coffee. It also came with an unexpected serotonin spike as a mischievous cat joined us for our morning ritual.
Today was looking to be a long, long day so we couldn’t hang with the kitty for too long. We hopped along the stepping stones to cross the river, strolled past a meadow filled with grazing donkeys, and then found ourselves at the foot of the intimidating mountain pass that we would be ascending.
Hike from Kolikalon Lakes to the Loudon Pass
We cruised along for the first hour or so. Our hiking legs seemed to have regained their strength after a month of trekking in Pakistan. However, the altitude soon started to kick in and I found myself needing to pause every few minutes. I’ll go ahead and say that part of it was the increasingly beautiful scenery as we hiked out of the valley. At the very least, I had something nice to look at while gasping for air. The softness of the mountains made it seem like a scene from a Bob Ross painting. The rapidly moving clouds wove shadows across the landscape, making for a surreal show. We encountered only one group of hikers during our ascent. They and their donkeys were heading in the opposite direction. The dogs that accompanied them gave us a much-needed serotonin boost on an otherwise exhausting morning.
After a few hours, we reached the Loudon Pass at about 3,650 meters above sea level.
Descending from the Loudon Pass to Alauddin Lake
I thought the hard part of the day was over. Turns out, the struggle was only beginning. From the Loudon Pass, it was an absolute grind to reach Alauddin Lake. Maybe it was the fact that I was already tired from the climb, but the descent might have been tougher than the incline. It felt never-ending.
The first stretch was punishing, with the wind mercilessly whipping at us until we dipped beneath the false summit another 30 minutes from the Loudon Pass. From here, the elements were a little gentler, though the terrain was not. The descent took us through steep stretches of slippery, dusty trail before we reached a more forgiving meadow of wildflowers and predictable footing. The increased vegetation was also a welcome change, and we got our first patches of shade after several hours above the treeline.
I’d estimate we hiked downhill for about three hours before reaching a small concentration of abandoned guesthouses at a camping area called Vertikal Alauddin. Some visitors choose to drive up to this point and either start their trek here, or simply visit Alauddin Lake for the day. I’m sure if you arrange a driver beforehand, it’s possible to get dropped off in Artuch and picked up at Alauddin a few days later. We were in it for the long haul, though. I rallied my buckling knees and screaming calves and endured the final stretch to Alauddin Lake.
Camping at Alauddin Lake
Droplets of rain greeted us as we approached the lake, so we opted to set up camp as soon as we reached the lake. Although it might have been quieter and more secluded around other parts of the lake, the wafting scents of hot food from the chaikhana was too strong a temptation to resist. The campsite was marked as “U Ali” on Maps.Me. We quickly pitched our tent before nestling into the lakeside tapchan. We ordered a bowl of soup, a pot of tea, and a beer. 50 somoni seemed like a steep price to pay for a beer, but at this point of the trek, it seemed absolutely worth it. I was expecting a pint, but instead received a liter and a half bottle. Well worth the 50 somoni, it turned out. The soup was piping hot, perfect for the rapidly cooling temperatures as the sun dipped beneath the mountains in the foreground.
A cat joined us for the evening before we lamentably had to turn it away from our tent. I’d say it was in the more enviable position, though, as it scurried back into the warmth of the chaikhana, likely curled up by the fire as we shivered through the bitter night.
Day Three: Alauddin Lake to Dushakha Lake
My bladder forced me out of the tent at least an hour before the rest of my body would have liked, but the sunrise proved to be an excellent consolation. The morning light over the lake provided us with an uninterrupted reflection all the way to the other shore of the lake. The cat scurried out from the chaikhana, ready to pick things up where we left off the evening prior. I really couldn’t ask for a better way to start the morning. Turns out a stunning sunrise, alpine air, and a kitten are all one truly needs to be happy. Well, my dwindling food rations could have been more exciting, I guess. I scarfed down some hard bread softened by the oil in my canned tuna before tearing down the tent.
Cross the Alauddin Pass
We took a short stroll along the lake, a gentle warm-up before our legs would take yet another beating. Eventually, we reconvened with the trail up to the Alauddin Pass. The brisk morning air kept us cool for the majority of the ascent, a pleasant change from yesterday when our shadeless climb coincided with the peak of the day’s heat. The climb to the Alauddin Pass is unrelentingly steep, even moreso than the one to Loudon Pass. The views are fairly consistent all throughout. You’re just basically getting a higher vantage point of the Alauddin Lakes and distant mountains. Distance-wise, it isn’t as long as the climb to Loudon Pass, so we were able to grind out the 1,000 meter elevation gian in about two hours. The Alauddin Pass sat at about 3,780 meters above sea level.
Descending the Alauddin Pass
In stark contrast to the Loudon Pass, the Alauddin Pass was significantly more trafficked. Most hikers were hiking in the opposite direction to us, and we encountered a group about every 20 minutes or so. At the Alauddin Pass itself, there were about 20-30 people soaking in the views with us. We took some pictures, scarfed down a snack, then descended down the pass, greeted at last by a change of scenery. The winds were even more relentless along the Alauddin Pass, sending us scurrying down the mountain until we reached a boulder field to provide some shelter.
To the left, glaciers were peeking out from behind the clouds, setting up a dramatic scene for the remainder of our descent. it was slow-going. The stretch along the boulder field was flat and easy, but before long, the trail reverted to its steep and slippery nature. I was practically tip-toeing for the final descent. Each step felt unstable. Bring hiking poles if you have them. They would have come in clutch here. Instead, I clung to the side of the cliff with both hands and side-shuffled my way down.
On the bright side, our desired campsite for the evening was in view. It served as both motivation to keep going, and frustration at how it seemingly never got closer. We could see Dushakha Lake about two hours before we actually arrived. Maps.Me’s extremely optimistic estimate of a 45-minute descent did not take into account the fact that I would be practically crawling down.
Camp at Dushakha Lake
Miracle of miracles. We arrived. It was two back-to-back days of 1000-meter inclines followed by 1000-meter descents. The inclines were mind-numbingly steep and the descents seemingly never-ending. But wow, what a place we ended up in.
We reached Dushakha Lake in the late afternoon and secured a perfect campsite along the shores of the lake. Unlike Kulikalon and Alauddin, the shores were lined with boulders, making it difficult to find a flat place to set up camp. We found a patch of ground beneath a tree and dropped our bags. Not even a minute later, a couple walked up, clearly banking their hopes on this spot being open. Ya snooze, ya lose. No worries, they found a spot about a 100 meters down, but no doubt our spot was the envy of all hikers passing by.
I plunged my aching legs into the icy waters of Dushakha Lake and watched as the impenetrable layer of clouds miraculously cleared up in time for sunset. What a day.
Day Four: Dushakha Lake to Artuch, Drive Back to Panjakent
How often can you say that you were awoken by an avalanche? A loud crack shattered the serene silence of the morning and I quickly unzipped the tent. In clear view, a section of glacier succumbed to gravity and crumbled down the 90-degree face of the mountain directly in front of us. It was a sight to behold, and one hell of a way to wake up.
It’s hard to say which of our campsites was our favorite, but I think I’m leaning towards Dushakha Lake.
We packed our tent one last time and started the journey back down to Artuch. Upon returning to the Kulikalon Basin, we had to traverse a number of river crossings. Some of them were a straightforward hop across five stones. Others required a bit more balance as we skipped across 30 or 40 stones. We hiked along a different lake until we reached the same teahouse where we stopped before ascending the Loudon Pass. Perhaps we were simply lucky on those first two days, but the once-empty Kulikalon Basin was now filled with large groups of hikers. The mischievous cat that had free rein over the choykhana was now locked away. The larger groups of hikers likely weren’t as fond of his menace.
Hike Back Down to Artuch
We opted for a different route around the Kulikalon Basin on our way down to Artuch. The sheer number of lakes we encountered was mind-boggling. There were dozens of lakes of all sizes, each one worthy of its own fame. I don’t think I would have been unhappy setting up camp along any of them.
Upon leaving the Kulikalon Basin, the trail is the same as the first day. In lieu of complaining about how much my knees despised this stretch, I’ll skip straight to the Artuch Alplager.
Stay at Artuch Alplager
Day four can go a number of different ways. Initially, we had planned on spending the night at the Artuch Alplager Guesthouse. It felt like a good reward after a few days of camping in the wild. A hot meal also sounded tempting after simply eating to survive for the last few meals. However, the guest house was a bit of a mess. For a place that seemed like an institution, it was quite poorly-managed. Not to mention the prices were extortionate for rooms that might have been less comfortable than sleeping in a tent. The restaurant is nice, though, and we split a 100 somoni lunch package of bread, salad, and a hearty stew. I ordered a Corona and sipped away as we tried to figure out our plans.
The marshrutka back to Panjakent departs daily from Yakhakona at 1 PM. In our case, that ship had sailed long ago. Fortunately, we knew a guy. I texted our friend Maqsud, who was our driver for the Seven Lakes tour. It was a shot in the dark, but hey, if anyone was going to be free, our best shot was an unemployed teenager in need of $50.
“I’ll be there in two hours. I’m driving as fast as I can.”
Safety first, Maqs. He indeed showed up two hours later with a friend along the ride. His friend was from the area, and we got an unexpected tour of some of the nearby villages as his friend ran errands and paid quick visits to his family members. But hey, we were on our way back to Panjakent, so no complaints. Maqs’ emergency pickup cost us about $30 each, but taking into account the expenses of staying in Artuch, plus the extra day of equipment rental fees, it came out to be a net positive. Shout out to Maqs. Truly nothing better than sleeping in a real bed and eating real food after a few incredible days out in the mountains.
Closing Thoughts on the Fann Mountains
Looking for something truly wild, rugged, and untouched? Central Asia is the new it destination, yet Tajikistan still flies under the radar compared to its neighbors. Compared to other multi-day treks in the region, like the Ala Kul Trek or Song Kul horseback trek, there were very few other hikers sharing the trails with us. It only amplified the untamed nature of the region, often going hours without running into another soul.
Buy Me A Beer!
If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.