The Backpacker’s Travel Guide to Flores | Guatemala

The tiny and colorful island of Flores in Northern Guatemala’s jungly Peten region might be the country’s hottest destination, both literally and figuratively. Despite taking only about 15 minutes to walk around the island, it is an excellent home base for the incredible adventures that the Peten region of Guatemala has to offer, of which there are many. From ancient archaeological sites tucked away deep in the jungle to relaxing lakeside activities, Flores has got range.

There is a surprising amount to do in Flores and I ended up extending my stay by several days. I just adored how laid-back the vibe of Flores was. The adventures were grandiose, from its magnificent Mayan ruins to secluded swimming holes in the jungle. At the same time, the pace of life on the island of Flores was slow, relaxing, and simple. The locals here were incredibly friendly and since it is such a small island, if one stays long enough, you’re bound to make friends with the familiar faces you run into day in and day out.

It was the perfect way to close out my time in Guatemala with both a bang and a much-deserved rest after the countless epic adventures that Guatemala has to offer. If you want to see what the little island of Flores is all about, read on.

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Table of Contents


How To Get to Flores

Flores is in the far north of Guatemala, not too far from the country’s borders with Belize and Mexico. Guatemala can seem deceptively small. It isn’t a large country by any means, but the winding roads through mountainous and jungled landscapes can make travel times much longer than expected.

A bus to Flores from Antigua or Lake Atitlan can take close to 20 hours, while the flight that I just hopped off of took little more than 20 minutes of actual flying time. There is an airport that serves Flores called the Mundo Maya International Airport. It is a tiny airport, but conveniently only about ten minutes away from the island of Flores. A tuk-tuk from the airport to the island should only cost about 20 quetzals. If you have too much luggage for a tuk-tuk, a taxi will cost around 50 quetzals.

Traveling overland to Flores is also pretty easy. It’s firmly on the backpacking route and serviced by plenty of local buses and tourist shuttles. From Belize, I’d recommend getting on one of the tourist shuttles that goes from San Ignacio or Belize City. The border crossing isn’t too bad, but I always like knowing that the driver will wait for me when I’m crossing international borders.

If you’re traveling from south to north, you are likely coming from Lanquin or Rio Dulce. Both have tourist shuttles that go to and from Flores. Taking the local bus is also possible, but you’ll likely have to make a few transfers. From what I’ve heard, it isn’t worth the extra hassle since the cost is marginally better than taking the tourist shuttle from Lanquin. The 9-10 hour ride to Flores cost 200 quetzals.

Aside from chicken buses, there are proper overnight buses that depart from Guatemala City and go to Flores. Last I heard, the price to book with the Maya de Oro bus company was around 375 quetzals. If you plan on sticking to Guatemala, I would recommend taking the buses up to Flores and then flying back down to Guatemala City. That way, you can visit Rio Dulce, Coban, Semuc Champey, or other things between the capital and Flores.


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Where To Stay in Flores

Flores has no shortage of places to stay. It feels like every other building on the island is a hostel or hotel. You are spoilt for choice here. I stayed on the island itself, although some travelers opt to stay across the lake in the quieter town of San Miguel, or across the bridge in the more urban part of Flores. Personally, I loved staying on the island. Everything you need was within walking distance and it is just a beautiful, idyllic setting. No matter how many times I walked down the same streets, the colorful city never got old.

There are quite a few hostels on the island, but the most famous is Los Amigos Hostel. It is the place to be for younger backpackers looking for a party. Los Amigos’ bar is one of the few places on the island where you might find a party. A popular alternative to Los Amigos is Macarena Hostel. I didn’t stay here myself but my friend said it was very relaxed and wholesome.

I also stayed at Don Cenobio Hostel overlooking the lake. Personally, I’d say Don Cenobio was the nicest of the three, but it was also quieter and hadn’t established itself as a backpacker hotspot yet. They had a restaurant and bar with beautiful lakeside views. Even if you aren’t staying here, it’s worth it to come in for a smoothie or a small snack.

I would recommend getting a place with air-conditioning. For me, it was an absolute must in Flores. Don Cenobio advertised 24/7 air conditioning online, which is why I booked with them. They actually shut it off during the day but they’re happy to turn it back on at request, which is nice after a long day of exploring.

How To Get Around Flores

The island of Flores is connected to the mainland by a short road. Flores itself is easily walkable, taking no more than 20 minutes to do a full lap around the island. It is very small, although there are also tuk tuks that circle the island in case you don’t feel like walking. You’ll be sweating after even 10 seconds of walking, so I won’t judge if you decide to hop on a tuk tuk instead of walk.

However, there are a lot of places to explore near Flores that you won’t be able to access by foot alone. There is a reason why the circumference of the island is filled with small taxi boats (lanchas) whisking around locals and tourists alike. The cost for these boats vary depending on your destination. Groups of travelers might want to consider renting a private boat for the day if they’ve got a few places to visit and want the boat to wait for them. Let’s dive into those adventures.

Before setting off to trek the ruins and jungles of Guatemala, staying connected is an essential. I use Saily eSIM to keep me online during my travels, and it worked great across Guatemala. Figuring out directions, making travel plans with your new hostel friends, ordering a taxi, having an eSIM makes life so much easier when you’re on the road. Data packages for Guatemala start at just $5, and you can use my code “eli5” for an additional 5% off of your first Saily eSIM.

Best Things To Do in Flores

I came to Flores to do one thing and one thing only, Tikal. I didn’t think I’d need more than a full day in Flores, but I ended up staying for four. This always happens and I should probably expect it by now. While Tikal is the main attraction that draws travelers far and wide to the tiny island of Flores, there is actually quite a lot to keep you busy here. And also to keep you not busy, because sometimes, the best things to do is just chill by the lake or jump in and go for a swim. Here are some of the best things to do in Flores, Guatemala.

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Visit Tikal National Park

No trip to Guatemala is complete without a visit to the archaeological site of Tikal. It is one of the most impressive and awe-inspiring places I have ever visited. Even having visited the Chichen Itza, Palenque, and many other Mayan ruins, Tikal still took my breath away. It felt so different, partially due to just how jungly the region is. Oftentimes, you’ll be following a heavily-forested trail and out of nowhere, a massive pyramid appears. Climbing one of the pyramids will give you the scale of just how vast this archaeological site is, and it feels surreal to look over the jungle with these monstrous temples jutting out.

Star Wars fans might recognize Tikal as the filming location of Yavin IV from the original trilogy. I thought for sure that its popularity was to the level of somewhere like Machu Picchu or the Chichen Itza so I expected massive crowds. However, we arrived at the park right when it opened and it was fairly easy to avoid the crowds. I tagged along with a Spanish-speaking guide and our group only consisted of 7 people compared to the 37 that were slogging along with the English-speaking guide. Our small group also allowed us to take lesser-traveled roads through the jungle for some wildlife spotting, where we managed to spot toucans, spider monkeys, howler monkeys, and more.

Seriously, the experience could not have been better. I wish I had allowed myself another day to explore Tikal independently, but I was more than happy with what I was able to see in one day. People often say you need three full days to properly experience Tikal, but for those short on time, I think one day was enough to hit most of the highlights. The entrance fee is 150 quetzals and I paid 100 for roundtrip transportation. The guide was an additional 30 quetzals.

Yaxha Archaeological Site Sunset Tour

If you haven’t had your fill of ruins from Tikal, consider a visit to the smaller, but less-crowded archaeological site of Yaxha. While it isn’t as famous as Tikal, it is still a very impressive place to visit. It also dates back to the 4th century B.C. and was once a large and thriving city. It overlooks Lake Yaxha, and one can get unforgettable views of the lake and the jungle from atop one of Yaxha’s towering pyramids. Because of this, most travelers opt to visit this site on a guided sunset tour, departing from Flores around noon and returning at around eight in the evening. It’s a long day, but so worth it. How many people can say they’ve watched the sun set over the jungle from atop an ancient Mayan pyramid?

Jorge’s Rope Swing

While exploring ancient ruins is the thing to do in Flores, it is important to kick back and relax every once in a while. Surely Indiana Jones had his days off, too? One of the best places to chill out is Jorge’s Rope Swing, a backpacker-favorite hangout on the shores of Lake Peten Itza. Arrange a boat ride from Flores to take you there, and be sure to grab their contact to pick you up later

Once here, pay the small entrance fee and jump, swing, dive, and swim to your heart’s content. You can also grab some snacks and drinks to keep you filled up during the day. Unless you have a pool on Flores Island, there isn’t really anywhere nice to jump into the water, so Jorge’s is the spot to be if you want to cool off from the midday sun.

Hike to the Tayasal Ruins and Mirador Rey Canek

One of the more unexpectedly adventurous excursions I had was popping over to San Miguel for a late afternoon hike. I would watch the boat taxis going nonstop from the terrace of Don Cenobio hostel, and figured a 20 quetzal roundtrip fare was little to lose to find out what was on the other side of the lake. San Miguel itself wasn’t much of a town, but the highlights of this little neighborhood is a small cenote, a viewpoint overlooking the lake, and an active excavation of the ancient city of Tayasal.

The cenote was wildly underwhelming, but the backdrop of Flores and Lake Peten Itza was beautiful. It was right next to the ruins of Tayasal, so it’s easy to hit both in one steep but short burst. The ancient city of Tayasal is believed to be much larger and older than Tikal, but much of the site has yet to be unearthed. It was fascinating walking through such a storied and significant site. Even if there isn’t really anything noteworthy to see, Tayasal holds significance as the last Maya stronghold in Guatemala before eventually falling to the Spanish conquistadors. There is also a small archaeological museum dedicated to Tayasal just a short walk away from San Miguel’s dock.

After the disappointing cenote and Tayasal ruins, I continued a little while further to the Mirador Rey Canek. This was a little treehouse-style viewing platform with panoramic views of Flores Island, the mainland, and Lake Peten Itza. It was a great way to cap off my final night in Flores and Guatemala. The view is simply breathtaking.

Go on El Mirador Trek to La Danta Pyramid

One of the most epic adventures one can undertake in Guatemala is the multi-day trek to the largest pyramid in the world by volume. The La Danta Pyramid is part of the largely-unearthed El Mirador archaeological site. If Tikal made you feel like Indiana Jones or Lara Croft, El Mirador will make you actually live it. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to go on the El Mirador Trek. Honestly, even if I did have the time, I don’t think I would have had the willpower to put up with the heat and humidity of the Mayan jungle to hike for five straight days. Here’s a good breakdown of the trek I found online. It actually looks really cool, so if I’m ever back in the area, who knows. Maybe I’ll suck it up and go on a true-blue Lara Croft tomb-raiding adventure.

Go For a Swim in the Crater Azul

The Blue Crater is a natural paradise located about two hours away from Flores. Aside from Tikal and Yaxha, it is the cover girl of most tour agencies in town. The pictures promises pristine turquoise waters and untouched natural beauty. Since most of the adventures in Flores involve ruins, the Crater Azul is a great alternative for anyone looking to switch it up a bit. The journey to reach the Crater Azul involves a bus ride to the river and then a boat to reach the specific area where the swimming hole is. Few travelers make the trek to get here, so it is a total hidden gem. Swimming in a secluded river in the middle of the Guatemalan jungle is not a bad way to spend a few hours.

Eat, Eat, Eat

Flores has a bumping food scene. Almost every building on the outer border of the island is a restaurant: Maracuya, Nativo, Enrico, Maple and Bacon, the list goes on. Most hostels and hotels along this strip also have a restaurant of their own. This was what surprised me the most about Flores. Guatemalan food hasn’t really stood out to me, and then all of a sudden, the food in Flores is just absolutely elite? I was pleasantly surprised and took full advantage. I mean, I spent all day hiking through ruins, I deserve an extra meal per day, right?

Maracuya was an all-time favorite of mine and I ended up eating there three times. They had the best local food I’ve had in Guatemala, and their Thai curry, while not even remotely Thai, was delicious in its own right. The acai-coconut frappuccino was interesting but also the perfect frozen beverage for that Flores heat.

For something a little more budget-friendly, I’d recommend the small food stands in the main plaza. Tacos Los Peches had massive burritos for about $1 each. It helped balance the splurges at the fancier restaurants I visited. They also had tortas, tacos, and a few combination options.

Visit the Main Plaza

The main plaza of Flores sits on the hill at the center of the island. It consists of the main cathedral, a few municipal buildings, a small park, a few restaurants and food stands, and basketball courts. It isn’t all that exciting, but around sunset after the temperatures cool down a little bit, the plaza comes alive. People come here to hang out, play basketball, work out, eat street food and relax. Since it’s up on the highest point of the island, it’s a great viewpoint to catch the sunset, as well.

Take a Salsa Class or Cooking Class

I didn’t attend any of these but I did see signs outside some businesses that were advertising classes and other activities. One of them was a cooking class where you can learn to make pepian, a local Guatemalan dish. Another offering was a salsa class, but in Flores’ heat, the last thing I wanted to do was move. Maybe a slower-paced bachata class would’ve been more manageable.

Go Shopping at the Artisanal Markets

While the island of Flores itself doesn’t have a central market or specific souvenir market, there are a handful of shops selling textiles, ceramics, and other locally handcrafted goods. They are hard to miss, as the souvenir shops’ goods will typically spill out onto the streets.

Other Things To Do in Flores

Other things to do while in Flores will involve a boat (lancha) ride to reach. This includes visiting the ARCAS Wildlife Rescue Center. I didn’t do this myself but I heard it was fairly depressing to visit, mainly because the sanctuary is underfunded and they can’t afford to give the animals the proper environment and care they need.

Another spot to visit by boat is Playa Chechenal, one of the few swimming beaches easily accessible on Lake Peten Itza. Nearby to Flores is the Islote Santa Barbara, a small island home to a small museum. I didn’t do any of these things but it’s easy to just hire one of the boat captains for either a roundtrip or a full-day outing with multiple stops. I also saw quite a few people renting kayaks or standup paddle boards. I’m not sure where to rent these but I’m sure it’s not hard to find.

Something non-water-related is the Ixpanpajul Natural Park where you can cross hanging bridges and go zip-lining through the jungle. They have a few different entrance and itineraries depending on what you are interested in. It’s not too far of a drive from Flores, so if you are looking for a little more adrenaline, it could be a fun way to spend the day.

Nightlife in Flores

Don’t expect too much from the nightlife scene in Flores. On the island of Flores itself, the party scene is fairly limited. There are a couple of bars, but any late-night clubs or dancing spots will be difficult to come by. Overall, it is more chill but still very possible to have a fun time. Most restaurants and bars offer great deals for happy hour, which often last the entire afternoon. Afterwards, maybe head over to Los Amigos or L’Idiot for a few more drinks and a livelier atmosphere. L’idiot is a small, but cozy and quirky little bar that also serves a few bar snacks. Los Amigos hosts social events like karaoke nights and beer pong competitions. For backpackers, it’s easily the most reliable party spot on the island.

I also went to Mango’s Bar, but pretty much only for the terrace views. I love a good rooftop bar, especially in a place as hot as Flores where that breeze can help you cool down. There is likely a livelier nightlife scene across the bridge on the mainland, but I didn’t really go looking.

If you are looking for a party, I think the best way to do it is to assemble a group of your fellow travelers, head over to Jorge’s Rope Swing, and have an excellent day on the lake.

That’s what Flores is all about. Aside from exploring the nearby archaeological sites, the best way to experience Flores is to slow life down a little bit. Read in a hammock by the lake, savor every delicious meal, take it slow and just pass the time with friends and fellow travelers. That’s what Flores is all about.

Buy Me A Beer!

If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.

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