The Backpacker’s Travel Guide to Bukhara | Uzbekistan

Every traveler visiting Uzbekistan will have their own opinions on which Silk Road city astounds the most, and it’s hard to argue against any of these opinions. Each offers something unique and unforgettable. For me, that city was Bukhara. I remember first wandering around Bukhara’s historic center in the golden light of the late afternoon. My initial impression was, “damn, Samarkand must have got the country’s entire tourism budget.” Compared to Samarkand’s impeccably-reconstructed monuments, awe-inspiring in grandeur, Bukhara was more rough around the edges. However, the more I wandered, the more Bukhara captivated me with its own charm.

From the clink of a blacksmith’s hammer to the strums of a street performer’s sitar, the atmosphere of Bukhara completely immerses you. I could feel the history in every brick of Bukhara. Even today, it can feel like you’ve been transported centuries past. Life simply felt different in Bukhara, and because of this, it was my favorite city in Uzbekistan. Here is everything you need to know before visiting Bukhara, an underrated gem of Central Asia.

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Table of Contents


How To Get To Bukhara

Fortunately, getting to Bukhara is a breeze. Train travel is the way to go in Uzbekistan, and Bukhara sits firmly along the country’s main railway route. Numerous trains depart each day from either Tashkent and Samarkand. From the other direction, a smaller selection of trains depart from Khiva and Urgench. I booked all of my train tickets online through Uzbekistan’s official railway website without any issues.

It is also possible to book tickets directly at the railway station. Check online first regarding availability so you have an idea of the departures. It can be a good idea to book train tickets a few days in advance, especially when traveling during the busy season. Even in the less-busy summer season, I often had to settle for a less-ideal departure time because a train had completely filled up.

Bukhara’s railway station is about 30 minutes away from Old Town Bukhara, likely where you will be staying. Upon arriving, order a taxi via the Yandex Go app. It will cost about 25,000 som for the journey. There will be taxi drivers waiting to pounce once you exit the station. They’ll start with a preposterous offer of around 300,000, citing the distance and travel time, which honestly, fair enough. However, it doesn’t take much to haggle it down. If you can’t get a Yandex, it isn’t hard to convince a taxi driver to take you into town for a reasonable 30,000 to 50,000 som.


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Where To Stay in Bukhara

Without a doubt, the best area to stay is in the heart of Bukhara’s old town. This will put you within walking distance of most of Bukhara’s top attractions, as well as immerse you in the surreal atmosphere of this historic city. There’s a reason why the entire historic center has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Few places have made me feel like I had stepped back into time quite like Bukhara has.

In terms of accommodation, Bukhara may also one of the most budget-friendly destinations I’ve been to. It’s not hard to find a good hostel for under $10. Al Bukhari Boutique Hostel would be my pick for a hostel in Old Bukhara. It is situated a short walk from the Labi Hovuz square with shared dorm rooms starting at only $5 a night.

Aside from a hostel, I also stayed at Bukhara Old Town Hotel, also a short walk from most of the historic center’s attractions. This new guesthouse has large private rooms starting at $13 a night. It came with a big breakfast and the overall value was unbeatable.

There are numerous hostels and budget-friendly accommodation to choose from, though. Dervish Hostel is a popular one among travelers, and Payraviy Guest House is the OG traveler hostel in Bukhara. Since I visited in the middle of the summer, I am not ashamed to admit that I prioritized having air conditioning, which is how I ended up at the places I stayed. Which brings us to…

Best Time To Visit Bukhara

Bukhara is hot, hot, hot. I visited in July and it was debilitatingly hot during the days. My hours of exploration were limited to early in the morning and in the early evenings. The midday heat was used exclusively for relaxing in the shade of a mulberry tree, or sipping on a cold drink on a choyxana’s tapchan. On the bright side, only masochists like myself were traveling in Uzbekistan during this time, meaning the crowds were sparse and I often had the historic streets of Bukhara all to myself. Temperatures in July hovered at or above 40 degrees (104 degrees Fahrenheit) up until sunset.

For better weather, I would recommend visiting in the spring or fall. April, May, September, and October will be when the weather and temperatures are at its most tolerable. Along with its punishingly hot summers, Bukhara also experiences harsh winters, with temperatures frequently dipping below freezing in the winter months. Make sure to aim for that sweet spot where the temperatures are just right.

Getting Around Bukhara

Bukhara’s historic city center is very walkable. Aside from the taxi to and from Bukhara’s train station, you likely won’t need any taxis or public transportation to get around Bukhara. In fact, most vehicles are restricted from Old Bukhara’s main walking streets and plazas. This was one of my favorite things about Bukhara. Roaming through car-less streets made the historic center feel much more immersive. I spent most of my time here aimlessly wandering.

For adventures outside of Bukhara’s Old Town, Yandex Go is the best option. It’s the main ride-hailing app used throughout Central Asia. In Uzbekistan, it is absurdly cheap. I don’t think I ever paid more than $3 for a ride throughout the country, including the 30-minute ride from Bukhara to the train station. There are a few attractions scattered further outside of Bukhara’s historic center, such as the Chor Bakr Memorial Complex and the Sitori-i-Mokhi Khosa Palace.

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The Best Things To Do in Bukhara

The true magic of Bukhara lies in the life of the old city, how it still hums along the way it did centuries ago. Listening to the call to prayer drifting across the desert-hued domes of the bazaars, while the muffled clink of a blacksmith’s hammer seeps through his shop’s windows and colorful carpets clap against the brick of a madrasa, the whole vibe feels entirely surreal.

I did not look at a single guidebook or travel blog of things to do in Bukhara. I simply set off for a wander along its labyrinthine streets and let curiosity guide me. One will inevitably stumble into the important stuff, anyway. What’s that giant chess piece looking thing hovering above the city? Or those massive fortress walls that resemble the feet of an elephant? You’ll end up where you need to end up. An aimless wander through Old Bukhara is the best way to explore the city, referring to Google Maps every now and then to figure out the name of the madrasa or bazaar that you’ve just stumbled into. If you need a few ideas, here are some good places to start.

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The Ark of Bukhara Fortress

The massive fortress, dating back to the 5th century, is pretty hard to miss. The imposing city walls are something to behold. If I were a Mongol conqueror stumbling upon Bukhara, I would have simply turned around. These days, the Ark of Bukhara is a bit like a living museum. Parts of it are still being actively excavated and renovated. It’s an impressive structure from the outside looking in, and also offers a few attractions within the fortress itself, as well as a nice view of the city from atop its walls.

Po-i-Kalyan Square and Complex

This courtyard is arguably the most stunning spot in Bukhara, surrounded by sun-baked architecture and intricately-tiled madrasas. Aside from enjoying the scenes of the bustling central courtyard, one can enter the madrasas. While I didn’t find them to be as impressive as the ones in Samarkand, they’re still worth checking out. Consider joining a walking tour of Bukhara to get more context on this city’s rich history and cultural heritage.

Bukhara Central Bazaar

A little further outside of the historic center of Bukhara, one will find the city’s Central Bazaar. Don’t expect anything like Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar or even Tashkent’s Chorsu Bazaar. It might not be the most extravagant bazaar, but I did love its glimpse into the local life of Bukhara. There was one section that catered towards tourists, but the rest of the bazaar was frequented entirely by Uzbek shoppers. Some parts of Uzbekistan can feel like they cater entirely to tourists, so mixing it up with a more local experience was a good way to spice things up.

Have a Meal or Drinks at Labi Hovuz

Whether you are stopping by for a beer or a large spread of shashlik, Labi Hovuz cannot be missed. This restaurant is situated next to a small pond and flanked by madrasas on both sides. Surprisingly, for its unbeatable location and scenic views, the prices aren’t outrageous, either. I was able to keep it under $10 for my usual dinner of shashliks, sides, and a beer or two. The atmosphere here is great. I’d recommend stopping by in the evening for a drink at the very least.

Bolo Hovuz Mosque

Bolo Hovuz is a mosque dating back to the 1700s. While small, the Bolo Hovuz mosque is unique and scenic, situated in front of a small pond and highlighted by its narrow wooden pillars. Bolo Hovuz is free to enter, and the interior is the typical intricately-decorated Central Asian style dome. It’s right across the street from the Ark of Bukhara and worth the quick detour.

Ismail Samani Mausoleum

The Samanid Mausoleum is among Bukhara’s oldest surviving structures, dating back to the 10th century. The Ismail Samani Mausoleum is one of the earliest examples of Islamic architecture, and the only surviving monument from the Samanid era. It houses the remains of three Samanid rulers, of which only Nasr II is confirmed. This unique mausoleum, while small, is worth the visit if you want something a little different than the grandiose monuments and madrasas.

Toqi Telpak Furushon

Of the many bazaars and shopping areas in Uzbekistan, the ones I visited in Bukhara stood out as among the best. Bukhara is world-renowned for their rugs and carpets. There are several places scattered throughout the city to shop around, but Toqi Telpak Furushon is a one-stop shop right in the center of Old Bukhara. Even if you aren’t planning on buying anything, it is a wonderful place to wander through and soak in the beauty and craftsmanship of Bukhara’s weavers and artisans.

Blacksmithing Shops and Master Classes

A unique activity in Bukhara is a blacksmithing workshop or master class. While I didn’t participate myself, I did see quite a few places offering a more hands-on approach to Bukhara’s heritage of blacksmithing. Although Bukhara is best-known for their carpets, I much preferred wandering through a blacksmith shop and admiring the swords, daggers, and other trinkets of bronze, brass, silver, and gold.

Qo’sh Madrasa and Modarykhan Madrasa

I stumbled upon these two madrasas on the way back from some attractions on the outskirts of Bukhara. I saw them from a distance and assumed I was heading back towards Poi Kalan’s courtyard, but ended up here instead. The madrasas are beautiful and there was no one else here when I randomly walked in. While it’s nothing too revolutionary, it is a nice, quieter alternative if you want to admire the intricate tile-work and architecture without having to contend with any crowds.

Chor Minor

Like the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, Chor Minor is a small, but unique historical attraction. It’s a short walk from Labi Hovuz square, tucked away in a local neighborhood. If you’ve got some time to kill, Chor Minor is a decent side quest. There is also a small shop across from Chor Minor selling Soviet antiques, which I honestly found more fascinating than the mosque itself.

Live Music at Aladdin Lounge

live music aladdin bukhara uzbekistan

After having dinner at Labi Hovuz, I’d pop over to Aladdin Lamp Lounge to see if they’ve got any live performances happening. Most nights, they had a band playing, and I’d spend an hour or two jamming out and sipping on a beer. They also had dance performances and solo musicians. The food here is decent, but the atmosphere is definitely the highlight. There’s nothing I love more about Central Asia than vibing out to musicians playing traditional instruments under a tree. Pure bliss, I tell ya.

Aside from Labi Hovuz and lounges with live music, there are a few other restaurants in Bukhara that I loved.

Zolotaya Buhara was my personal favorite, excelling in pretty much everything I could ask for. The decor, aesthetic and vibes were great, both inside the restaurant and the small outdoor area spilling out into the walking streets of Old Bukhara. The menu was local and affordable, and they had plenty of incredible teas to try out. I loved sitting here around sunset and soaking in all of the beauty that Bukhara had to offer. The bazaar on one side, a lively walking street on the other, it was excellent for people-watching and enjoying a great meal.

Don’t let this list limit you. While Bukhara is fairly small, there is a lot to stumble upon. Its narrow, labyrinthine alleyways are filled with hidden gems and gorgeous views.

Buy Me A Beer! 

If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.


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