The Backpacker’s Travel Guide to Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi is, without question, one of the most fascinating cities I have ever traveled to. Georgia’s capital sits at a crossroads of cultures, dividing continents into east and west, and quietly playing a major part in the history of the world and its many empires. When one hikes up to the Mother of Georgia, breathlessly looking over Tbilisi’s eclectic skyline, one can just see the various eras that this city has had through its millennia of history. Few cities can boast the character and personality that Tbilisi has. It captivated me from the get-go and it remains one of my favorite cities in the world.

Although increasing in popularity as a travel destination, the Caucasus region remains criminally overlooked by most travelers. Georgia, is perhaps, the best introduction to this culturally-rich and environmentally-diverse region of Eurasia. Whether you plan on trekking in the otherworldly mountains of Svaneti or cruising through the world’s oldest wine country, you will likely be kicking off your adventures in Georgia’s vibrant capital of Tbilisi. Tbilisi a budget-friendly destination perfect for backpackers and travelers of all styles. However, with a less-developed tourism infrastructure, you’ll have to do a bit more preparation and research before going to Tbilisi. I’ve got you covered. Here is everything you need to know to make the most of a visit to Tbilisi.

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Table of Contents


How To Get To Tbilisi

The easiest way to get to Tbilisi is by taking a flight. It is the largest city in Georgia, boasting about a third of the country’s population. There are direct flights to Georgia from several major European cities as well as some major cities in the Middle East, Asia, and North America. If you can’t find a direct flight to Tbilisi, the other airports in Georgia to look at would be in Batumi and Kutaisi. I flew from Istanbul to Tbilisi with Pegasus Airlines for about $150 USD round trip.

I took a detour through Armenia, so I also traveled by bus on my way back to Tbilisi. From Yerevan, this was fairly easy to figure out and the border crossing was very relaxed. There are direct trains to Georgia from Turkey, Armenia, and Azerbaijan. I haven’t personally taken any of them, but I know they exist. I’ve met travelers who have taken the night train from Armenia and a similar train from Azerbaijan. If you’re looking to travel by train from Turkey, here’s a good blog post I read covering the journey.

Quick Tidbits To Know Before Visiting Tbilisi

Do You Need a Visa for Georgia?

Getting into Georgia is simply and straightforward. Georgia has a yearlong visa-free period for almost every country. You likely won’t need a year to travel through this small country, but it makes it an attractive destination for remote workers and digital nomads. Taking it slow in Tbilisi for a few months is not a bad idea at all.

Is Tbilisi Safe to Visit?

Tbilisi is a funny one, and I’ll admit, my first impressions of the city weren’t great. Looks can be very deceiving, especially when you grow up as an American and consume lots of anti-Soviet media through video games and movies. Parts of Tbilisi look like they are falling apart entirely, with the Soviet-era apartment blocs in unkept and decrepit state. However, despite its sometimes unattractive facade, Tbilisi is much safer than it appears.

Georgia is, overall a very safe destination, with a low crime rate and friendly people. No matter where I traveled in the country, the people were kind, welcoming, and very hospitable. Despite bordering Russia, and many of its citizens despising Russia, there is no reason to fear any political violence or unrest. There are frequent protests, but are nonviolent in nature and typically peaceful. Georgia has had a complex political history dating back thousands of years, so keep yourself informed and be aware of any travel warnings or advisories.

Currency in Georgia

Georgia’s currency is the Georgian Lari. The exchange rate is pretty stable and hovers between around 2.7 GEL to 1 USD. For withdrawing money without any added fees, find a Bank of Georgia ATM. There are also plenty of money exchanges in Tbilisi to exchange U.S. dollars, Euros, and other currencies. Most restaurants, hostels, and bars in Tbilisi accept credit card, but it’s never a bad idea to have some cash handy in Georgia.

Staying Connected in Georgia: Data and SIM Cards

Georgian SIM cards are readily available and relatively affordable. Magti, Silknet, and Beeline are the main cellular providers. It’s easy to find one of their stores in Tbilisi. I didn’t use a SIM card while I was in Georgia, because of the stupid locked iPhone dilemma us Americans have to suffer through.

I ended up using Saily eSIM to keep me online during my travels, ensuring that I had internet from the moment I landed to the moment I left. Navigating directions while hiking the Caucasus Mountains, coordinating travel plans with new hostel friends, booking rides, and so on – having an eSIM makes life that much easier. Data packages for Georgia start at just $4, and you can use my code “eli5” for an additional 5% off of your first Saily eSIM.

Travel Insurance For Georgia

Oh, and before you go, make sure to have good travel insurance handy while you’re off adventuring across the world. I use SafetyWing to keep me covered throughout my travels for as low as $2 dollars a day. Their plans cater towards long-term travelers like digital nomads and backpackers, and include Georgia among the 190+ countries that they cover.

Where To Stay in Tbilisi

There are a variety of accommodation options available in Georgia that cater to any budget. As a backpacker, though, hostels in Tbilisi are the way to go. There are some really unique hostels here unlike anywhere else I’ve stayed before.

Best Hostels in Tbilisi

My favorite of Tbilisi’s hostels is Fabrika Hostel. This place is worth visiting even if you don’t plan on staying at the property itself. It’s a repurposed factory that is now one of the most vibrant and happening places in the city. On top of hostel dorms and private rooms, Fabrika Hostel is home to a number of bars, cafes, restaurants, art galleries, boutique shops, and an outdoor courtyard that is a popular hangout spot among young locals.

It is one of the coolest hostels I have ever stayed at in my travels. The only downside is that Fabrika is a little further out from Old Tbilisi, and can also be a bit loud if you are hoping for something quieter. In that case, other popular hostels in Tbilisi include Envoy Hostel located right in Old Tbilisi, boasting beautiful views from their terrace, and the Green House Hostel, beloved for their cozy, family vibe.

How Many Days to Spend in Tbilisi

This is a tough question to answer. Tbilisi is not a large city by any means, and most of its top attractions can be seen in just a few days. However, the city is just filled with hidden gems at every corner. It’s easy to spend weeks here falling in love with the city’s many cozy cafes or trendy bars. Overall, it depends on the length of your trip and what you hope to accomplish. If you’ve got just a few weeks to spend in Georgia or the Caucasus countries, then I’d say three days should be enough in Tbilisi. One could easily spend more if you plan on using Tbilisi as a home base for day trips to the nearby regions of Kazbegi or Kakheti, but to cover the main attractions of Tbilisi, three days should suffice.

How To Get Around Tbilisi

I found Tbilisi to be a very walkable city, particularly in the touristic neighborhoods like Old Tbilisi. Public transportation does exist in Tbilisi. I really only used it to reach the Chronicle of Georgia outside the center, but it’s there! For the most part, it’s easy to figure out and affordable. It costs 1 Georgian Lari per ride, or about 40 cents. It’s also possible to buy a transportation card if you plan on staying longer than a few days. Here’s more on public transportation in Tbilisi.

Uber and Bolt are also convenient and affordable to use in Tbilisi. I hardly used them but I don’t think ever paid more than 20 Lari for a ride anywhere in the city. As long as you are staying in a fairly central part of town, Tbilisi is walkable and safe.

The Best Things To Do in Tbilisi

Tbilisi is oozing with culture, history, and countless fun activities. It’s one of the most unique cities I’ve ever been to, with such a wide variety of… everything, really. Seriously, hike up to the Mother of Georgia statue on the hill and tell me the skyline isn’t one of the weirdest you’ve ever seen. It perfectly encapsulates the range that Tbilisi has as a city. Tbilisi is proud of its tradition and history, but is also quite progressive, modern, and forward-thinking. Along with its historical neighborhoods, one will find alternative neighborhoods draped in street murals, with vintage stores, artsy cafes, and vibe-y bars filled with young people looking to have fun.

Here are some of my favorite things to do in Tbilisi.

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Old Tbilisi

Old Tbilisi, also known as Kala, is where most people will begin their adventures in Georgia’s capital. This historic district is home to many of the city’s most important landmarks and top attractions. Some can’t-misses are the Sioni Cathedral and the vibrant Meidan Bazaar. However, Old Tbilisi is excellent for an aimless wander. We came here without any destination really in mind. It was lovely to just walk through this historical neighborhood and photograph Old Tbilisi’s sights.

Rustaveli Avenue

This is the main street in Tbilisi, lined with shops, restaurants, and cafes. It is home to many of Tbilisi’s large government buildings and cultural establishments, including the Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre, the Rustaveli National Theatre, and the Georgian National Museum.

One of my favorite parts of this mile-long thoroughfare is the extensive underground market that runs below the streets. There are no pedestrian crossings on Rustaveli, so to cross the street, you have to look for one of the below-ground passages. Some sections of this feel like its own hidden city, with markets, shops, and more.

Dry Bridge Market

This was among my favorite surprises of Tbilisi. For thrift shoppers and vintage market lovers, Tbilisi’s Dry Bridge Market should be at the top of your list. This sprawling market spreads out across a bridge, as the name suggests, and extends onto many wide streets and into a park. The vendors mostly sell antiques and secondhand items. If you are souvenir-hunting, you’ll have better luck at the Meidan Bazaar. However, on a sunny day, nothing beats roaming around the open-air Dry Bridge Market and chatting away with the very friendly locals.

The Bridge of Peace and Rike Park

Rike Park is one of Tbilisi’s nicest green spaces, and an excellent place to decompress. It’s filled with modern art installments, gardens, and plenty of funky things to look at. It’s connect to the famous Bridge of Peace. I mean, it’s just a bridge, but it is really aesthetically pleasing and offers great views of the city. Across the bridge is Rike Park, a green area with art exhibits and sculptures and a good place to kick back and take in some views. Both are new additions to Tbilisi’s cityscape, wrapping up construction in 2010.

Mother Georgia and Narikala Fortress

a statue of a woman holding a sword

A short hike to Narikala Fortress and the Mother Georgia statue rewards one with a magnificent view of Tbilisi. It’s right next to the Narikala Fortress, so it’s a good idea to hike up and visit both at once. This 20 meter tall statue guards over Tbilisi with a sword and bowl in hand. The bowl represents the Georgian hospitality to visitors who come as friends, and the sword to those who come as enemies. I can personally vouch for Georgia’s incredible hospitality, and hopefully, never have to vouch for its sword.

Behind the Narikala Fortress and Mother Georgia is a vast natural park with a massive botanical garden. If you’ve got time, it’s worth checking out, especially if you want a breather from the busier parts of the city.

Abanotubani Baths District: The Sulfur Baths

Did you know Tbilisi was built upon thermal waters? The Abanotubani district of Tbilisi is known for its hot springs and sulfur baths said to have healing properties. The most famous one are the Orbeliani Baths, partially due to its gorgeous exterior. For a little bit of self-care and wellness, spending a few hours at Tbilisi’s many bathhouses can be an excellent idea, especially if you’ve just come from trekking in the mountainous reginos of the country.

Chronicle of Georgia

The Chronicle of Georgia is a massive monument located about thirty minutes from downtown Tbilisi. I originally didn’t feel like making the journey, but I’m glad I did. It felt like something straight out of Lord of the Rings or the Dwarven cities of Skyrim. Along with the gigantic structures, there are panoramic views and some short hiking trails offering a scenic escape from downtown Tbilisi.

Feast on Georgian Food

I had no idea what to expect from Georgia’s cuisine. I don’t think I had ever heard of any of its dishes or even seen a Georgian restaurant in my life. Georgian food feels like a warm hug, from its toasty breads, melted cheeses, and tasty combinations of nuts and spices. Be sure to have khinkali, a Georgian-style dumpling filled with meat, spices, and herbs. These are boiled and supposed to be eaten with your hands, despite them being slimy and scalding hot.

Ooh, and khachapuri. Mmmm, khachapuri. This is a traditional Georgian bread dish filled with cheese, eggs, and butter. The most famous version is Adjaruli khachapuri, which is a large boat-shaped bread filled with melted cheese and an egg on top. It is delicious, especially when homemade with love from a kind local grandma. Then, my favorite: kubdari. This is like a circle of dough stuffed with meat and onions and spices. A warm kubdari after a long day of trekking is a literal slice of heaven Another one to try is pkhali, a traditional Georgian dish of ground nuts and vegetables mixed with spices and herbs and formed into small balls. It’s earthy and feels healthy, so throw a little bit of this in with Georgia’s predominantly meat and cheese and carbs diet, and you should be good to go!

The Best Day Trips from Tbilisi

Georgia isn’t a large country, and it’s pretty easy to use Tbilisi as a home base to reach most parts of the country on a day trip. Here are some of the best day trips to take from Tbilisi.

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Kazbegi Mountains

For mountain-lovers, you don’t have to go all the way to Svaneti to experience Georgia’s stunning Caucasus Mountains. The Kazbegi region is one of the most popular day trips from Tbilisi, with the highlight being a visit to the Gergeti Trinity Church. This church nestled atop a hill feels straight out of Game of Thrones, dating back to the 14th century and boasting unbelievable views of the Kazbegi region.

Kakheti Wine Region

Georgia is a very slept-on country when it comes to wine. Georgia is known for its wine-making tradition, which dates back to ancient times. Some historians trace the origins of wine to the Caucasus countries, so it’d be a mistake to visit Georgia without paying a visit to the Kakheti wine region. The wine in Georgia is great, and a unique specialty of theirs is amber wine.

Armenia

armenia travel guide noravank monastery

Why not check out an entirely new country while in Tbilisi? Armenia is not far from Tbilisi, and many tour agencies offer full-day trips to check out some of Armenia’s highlights. Although I’d recommend spending at least a few days in Armenia, especially in its exciting capital city of Yerevan, a day trip is an excellent option for those short on time.

These ideas are just a starting point for your trip to Tbilisi. There is so much to discover in this dynamic and ever-changing city. Be sure to take some time and roam through Old Tbilisi and discover some of its gems for yourself. Georgia is an incredibly underrated travel destination. If you are considering a visit, I promise you won’t regret it. And with that, Gamaurjos!

Buy Me A Beer!

If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.

More on the Caucasus Countries