Hidden gems have become increasingly hard to come by, especially in this region of the world where cruise ships make their unceasing rounds and streams of backpackers lug their Ospreys north and south like parades of ants. My expectations were fairly tempered as I boarded my flight to El Salvador. I was excited to set foot in a new country but having spent many years traveling Latin America, I was expecting to see more of the same. And in a way, I was kind of correct, except in the best way possible.

Traveling through El Salvador brought back an unexpected sense of nostalgia, feelings that I had thought long lost to prior eras of backpacking. Latin America has undoubtedly experienced a massive boom in tourism in recent years. It has changed so rapidly and so permanently since my early days of traveling every corner of the Americas. El Salvador brought me back to those rugged, gritty adventures. Those moments where you were beyond exhausted but just felt so fulfilled at the end of the day.

A perfect day here involved hiking through unmarked jungle trails, diving into secluded waterfalls, and then hitching a ride back to town in the bed of a local’s truck so I could consume my body weight in pupusas. The locals still met travelers with genuine hospitality and curiosity, yet to be jaded by the conveyor belt of foreigners that rumble through Mexico, Guatemala, and Costa Rica. Now, I’m not trying to be a tourist complaining about other tourists. I’m just saying, right from the get-go, El Salvador felt different.

For adventurous backpackers looking for authentic adventures, El Salvador is an absolute gem of a travel destination. It has gone overlooked for years, and due to safety concerns, perhaps, rightfully so. In just a few short years, El Salvador has begun a rapid and complete transformation and will undoubtedly become one of Central America’s hottest destinations before too long. Enough chit-chat, it’s just something you have to see and experience for yourself. Here is everything you need to know before backpacking El Salvador.

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Table of Contents

• Is El Salvador Safe to Visit?
• Things To Know Before Going to El Salvador
• How To Get To El Salvador
• How To Travel Around El Salvador
• Finding Accommodation: Where To Stay in El Salvador
• Budgeting for El Salvador
• Best Destinations: El Salvador Sample Itinerary
• Closing Thoughts
• Buy Me A Beer!
• More on Central America

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Is El Salvador Safe to Visit?

El Salvador has gone through some drastic changes in recent years, rebuilding from one of the world’s most dangerous countries to among its safest. Regardless of what your opinion is on the radical measures that President Bukele and his government have implemented to reach that objective, statistics do not lie. El Salvador is very safe to visit and crime has become nearly nonexistent. It is hard to imagine that just a few years ago, it was a no-go zone and now it is a Level One on the U.S. travel advisory list. I never really listened to travel advisories anyway, but that puts it above the likes of Guatemala, Panama, Mexico, and even Costa Rica.

Now, do I agree with the human rights nightmare of its mega-prison and the fact that 2% of its population is currently incarcerated? Absolutely not, but alas, we are just observers and visitors to this country. From all the conversations I’ve had with the locals here, they believe that the extreme measures were necessary to right the ship.

I stayed with a local family in Santa Ana. Their home faced a little park, where we’d sit on stools and chat in the evenings. The father, Jaime, and his two young sons pointed out the many parts of this park where people were gunned down and murdered. Jaime considered fleeing the country with his family to seek a better environment to raise his kids in, with his sights set on Cuba or Nicaragua. He told me he never imagined that just a few years from reaching that breaking point, he could hang out in the park with his kids late at night, and even send them to city’s forests and mountains to go hiking with his homestay’s guests. Many people I spoke to had similar stories and similar sentiments.

Everyone in the global media has a lot to say about El Salvador. Visit the country and reach your own conclusions.

Things To Know Before Going to El Salvador

While El Salvador is firmly on the Central American backpacking trail, it is often skipped over or quickly breezed through by most backpackers. A quick stop to surf in El Tunco and hike the Santa Ana volcano ends up being the only stops on most backpacking itineraries. I mean, I totally get it. Compared to other Central American countries, traveling in El Salvador comes with more challenges. It is objectively less backpacker-friendly in terms of tourism infrastructure. Here’s everything to help get your feet set before heading out to El Salvador.

Do You Need a Visa for El Salvador?

Most nationalities do not need a visa for El Salvador. Typically, a tourist staying for 90 days or less just needs to pay $12 upon arrival for a tourist card. No prior paperwork or forms are required for this. I just had to pay the immigration officer in cash. I’m not sure if they accept credit card payments, so have a few small bills handy to pay the fee. They gave me a little card or receipt that I kept for my duration of my time in El Salvador. They didn’t ask for it when I exited the country so I don’t think you need to keep it. However, I’ve made my fair share of mistakes by losing entry cards that I absolutely was supposed to keep so I wasn’t going to chance it.

When is the Best Time of Year to Visit El Salvador?

El Salvador experiences warm weather year-round, although there is a rainy season and dry season that should be taken into account when planning your trip. Traveling to El Salvador between November and April will typically reward with you hotter, drier weather. If you plan on spending a lot of time outside hiking or going to the beach, this half of the year is the ideal time to visit. I visited in March and had perfect weather throughout. The heat in Santa Ana and El Tunco were punishing, but the temperatures can also get chillier in the highland regions, like along the Ruta de las Flores.

The weather from May to October tends to be rainier and more unpredictable. Off-season travelers will be rewarded with slimmer crowds and more availability and better rates for accommodation. However, I don’t think El Salvador is that touristy or expensive where this should be a determining factor like it would be for visiting Greece or France in the offseason, for example.

Currency of El Salvador

El Salvador uses the U.S. dollar and Bitcoin as its official currencies. While some places accept credit card, I recommend having cash handy, especially in smaller towns. ATMs can often be unreliable in rural areas, so stock up on cash before leaving the cities. If you plan on using public transport, have loose change and small bills handy. Dollar coins are in heavy rotation here, which surprised me since they are hardly ever used in the U.S.

Bitcoin is an official currency but for the most part, locals have no idea what it is or how to use it. It was fascinating, though. I encountered random spots like a small street taco stand and a guy selling juice out of a converted Volkswagen that accepted Bitcoin. There were places offering Bitcoin courses, countless Bitcoin ATMs, and even Bitcoin hardware stores, whatever those are. It seems like El Salvador is really trying to make Bitcoin adoption happen. It will be an interesting experiment to keep an eye on. For now, rely on the U.S. dollar.

Language and Language Barrier

El Salvador predominantly speaks Spanish. There are a number of indigenous languages spoken throughout the country, but nearly everyone is also fluent in Spanish. English, on the other hand, is rarely spoken. Getting by with English alone is more of a challenge compared to other Central American countries. Even most hostel receptionists and other hospitality and tourism workers had limited proficiency in English.

While it is always possible to get by with English and a little bit of body language, I recommend having a basic grasp on Spanish before heading to El Salvador. One of my favorite things about the country was how talkative, friendly, and curious the locals were. I had many fascinating conversations with taxi drivers, street food vendors, homestay hosts, and all sorts of people. It gave me a deeper insight into El Salvador’s culture, history, and people. I wouldn’t have been able to have that experience had I not spoken Spanish whatsoever.

SIM Cards or eSIMs for El Salvador

Getting a SIM card is the cheapest way to stay connected in El Salvador. Find a local Claro or Tigo shop and buy a SIM card there. It might be possible to get one at the airport, but I usually try to avoid it since they up the price significantly at most airports.

However, if you are an American tied to a phone plan like me, you probably have your SIM card slot locked. It’s very frustrating because physical SIM cards in El Salvador are much cheaper. I ended up using Saily eSIM which worked great across the country. It was useful for figuring out directions, making travel plans with new hostel friends, ordering taxis, keeping friends and family updated, and much more. Having an eSIM makes life so much easier when you’re on the road. Data packages for El Salvador start at just $6, and you can use my code “eli5” for an additional 5% off of your first Saily eSIM.

Travel Insurance for El Salvador

How To Get to El Salvador

There are a number of different ways to reach El Salvador, whether you plan on flying in directly or tacking it onto a longer Central American backpacking trip.

Flying into El Salvador

A big reason why I ended up in El Salvador was a tremendous flight deal that popped up. Having skipped over this country on previous Central America trips, I decided now was the time. El Salvador International Airport is the country’s primary airport and lies practically in the country’s geographical center. It is simultaneously convenient and inconvenient, as it is not too far from everything but also not close to anything at all.

It is almost an hour away from San Salvador, which is where I ended up heading to after landing. There are local buses from the airport to San Salvador. However, if you’re arriving late at night or early in the morning, the best option is to order an Uber. It will cost you between $30 to $40 USD. The local bus will cost about $1, and also allows you to transfer easily to other destinations in the country if San Salvador isn’t your intended destination.

Traveling Overland Into El Salvador

El Salvador is well-connected with the rest of Central America through local buses and tourist shuttles alike. For entering the country, I’d recommend using a tourist shuttle since they aren’t too expensive and will wait for you at the border crossings. Many of these shuttles travel between Guatemala and Nicaragua and make a handful of stops in El Salvador, including Santa Ana, San Salvador, and El Tunco. I used Gekko Trails Explorer and they were affordable and reliable. I even had a private shuttle to myself from El Tunco to Antigua, so I’ll always appreciate them for going through with the ride instead of canceling on me.

Coming from Honduras might be a bit tougher. Most travelers I met either traveled via Guatemala from Honduras or flew directly between El Salvador and Honduras. Here is one of the few guides I’ve found about traveling between the two countries.

How To Travel Around El Salvador

Public transportation is the best way to travel around El Salvador, though it can sometimes be an experience. For those who have traveled Central America before, you might already be familiar with the local buses, affectionately referred to as “chicken buses.” There are thousands of these repurposed American-style school buses chugging along on highway and narrow alley alike of El Salvador. Seriously, it is impressive how these monstrous vehicles just navigate some of the tightest curves and steepest slopes in the country.

The best part of taking the chicken buses is that they are incredibly affordable. The most I ever paid was $1.50. Most journeys of less than an hour will cost less than $1. It was a pleasant change from other countries in Central America where daunting day-long chicken bus journeys or expensive tourist shuttles were the norm. These are are cash only and cannot be booked in advance. Make sure to have small change handy to pay your fare.

An alternative to chicken buses are the buses known as “especial” or “ejecutivo“, which are air-conditioned coaches that offer more legroom and luxury. The price difference for a foreign traveler can be negligible. Whenever this was an option, I happily paid the extra price. It was never more than a dollar extra. A chicken bus from Santa Ana to San Salvador cost $.75, while the executive class cost $1.60, well worth it for the air-conditioning alone.

CentroCoasting is an excellent resource for bus travel in El Salvador. It came in handy several times throughout my trip. The locals are always friendly and happy to help you get where you’re going, but it’s good to check beforehand so you have an idea of where to go and what bus to hop on.

Finding Accommodation: Where To Stay in El Salvador

El Salvador has accommodation options catering to any budget. As a backpacker, it doesn’t have the established hostel scene that the neighboring countries have but there are usually a handful of hostels in each city. Most are fairly basic, so don’t expect too much and you’ll be okay.

What I did love about El Salvador’s hostel scene is that each one felt homey and warm. Most are still locally-owned and have their own personality and quirks. A lot of Latin America has been taken over by hostel chains that copy-and-paste their formula and mass-produce an identical hostel experience in as many locations as they can. They have objectively beautiful and luxurious hostels, but definitely sacrifice the soul and warmth of a family-owned hostel. El Salvador is currently still free of the Selinas and the Viajeros. Each hostel here is a unique experience. Every time I walked into one, I was met with warmth and happiness.

A few of my hostel recommendations in El Salvador are:

• San Salvador: La Zona Hostel
• Santa Ana: Hostal Casa Verde, Casa El Triangulito
• Coatepeque Lake: Captain Morgan Hostel
• El Tunco: Papaya Lodge
• Juayua: Samay Hostel

A few places that I wanted to stay at were The Sunset Surf Villa and the Lagarza Hostel along the Salvadoran coast. However, without my own transportation, I opted to stay closer to El Tunco town. The prices reflect their luxury but I promise you, you will reap the benefits of paying a little more to have a swimming pool and air conditioning on the Salvadoran coast.

Budgeting for El Salvador

Backpackers on a budget, rejoice. El Salvador is one of the most affordable destinations of Central America. Honestly, it might be one of the most all-around budget-friendly countries that I’ve been to. No weak spots, unlike Argentina, where everything is cheap and then for some reason bus travel is like $100 from city to city. Everything, from top to bottom, was very affordable. Here is a general breakdown of what to expect when budgeting for El Salvador.

• Hostel dorms: $10-20 per night
• Private Rooms: $25-50 per night
• Local Meals: $2-3
• Public Transportation: <$2
• Taxis: $3-5 for a 30-minute ride

On top of a low cost of living, most of the activities I did in El Salvador were unbelievably cheap. For example, the stunning Cerro Santa Ana hike, if done independently with local transportation and local guides, costs less than $10 for the entire adventure. The Seven Waterfalls hike in Juayua also only cost us $10 for the guide, with an additional $5 for roundtrip transportation from Juayua. A lot of entrance fees to natural sites are negligible.

The only exception to this rule was El Tunco where everything was more expensive. It was still possible to find affordable rooms and meals, but in general, the prices of everything along the coast were on the higher end of the range I listed. For the most part, Salvadorans were honest and never tried ripping us off.

Sample Itinerary: Best Places to Visit in El Salvador

There is a lot to see in El Salvador. I severely underestimated how much there was to do in this small country. Most travelers stick to the western part of the country, which is what I did. I spoke to many locals that recommended lesser-traveled destinations, such as El Pital, Suchitoto, and the coastal cities further south. However, tourism infrastructure is still developing in many parts of El Salvador and those hidden gems might be more challenging for a foreign backpacker to travel to.

I reckon I’ll be back in a few years to discover more of El Ssalvador’s treasures, but for now, these are my favorite destinations. For any first-timer, it will be a great introduction to the El Salvador’s different regions and hitting many of its main highlights. For a detailed breakdown of each destination, including how to get there and where to stay, check out my more thorough two-week El Salvador backpacking itinerary.

San Salvador: 2 Days

El Salvador’s capital is the sensible starting point for most El Salvador travel itineraries. However, many travelers do not give San Salvador the time or energy it deserves. Admittedly, it can be a bit of an underwhelming introduction to the country. Rushing over to the volcanoes or coastline is completely understandable. However, for those that give San Salvador a chance, they will be met with one of the more fascinating cities I’ve visited.

San Salvador feels like a caterpillar about to break out of its cocoon, transforming into one of Central America’s great cities. Already, one can see the rapid development in the city, from the revitalization of its historical city center to the shining skyline of the Zona Rosa. Use San Salvador to get your feet set and learn about the country, whether from its museums or its extremely friendly locals, proud to welcome foreign travelers to their beloved home after a long period of unrest.

Ruta de las Flores: 5 Days

The Ruta de las Flores was my favorite region of El Salvador. While it may not have the “wow” factor that some of the country’s top destinations have, it ticked all the boxes for me. The Ruta de las Flores is a series of small towns in between the larger cities of Sonsonate and Ahuachapan. These towns are Nahuizalco, Salcoatitan, Juayua, Apaneca, and Ataco. Each is special for its own reason and I’d recommend visiting all of them.

It doesn’t take long. Each one is no further than 30 minutes away from the next town over on either side. Use Juayua as your home base and then spend a day visiting the other towns for just a couple of hours each. Try to visit over the weekend as there are some lively markets that take place along the Ruta de las Flores. The Juayua Food Festival and Nahuizalco’s evening market add a wonderful little vibe to these already charming towns.

Things to do along the Ruta de las Flores include the Seven Waterfalls Hike, a visit to Cafe Albania, and checking out the abundance of street art in colorful Ataco. Take your time to explore each town, soak in the beautiful views of the volcanoes and lush landscapes, and drink as much coffee as your heart desires.

Santa Ana: 5 Days

If you’ve had enough of small-town hopping, head over to Santa Ana. It is my favorite of El Salvador’s larger cities, despite its unrelenting heat, which is saying something. This colonial city is absolutely stunning and serves as most travelers’ home base for the nearby adventures.

Dedicate a day to hiking Volcan Ilamatepec, also known as the Santa Ana Volcano. It is perhaps El Salvador’s most recognizable attraction, with its turquoise lake nestled deep in the volcano’s crater. One can also visit Lago Coatepeque on the same day. This large crater lake is beautiful, and has plenty of restaurants and hotels on its shores to relax after a day of hiking. Many backpackers opt to stay a night or two at the famed Captain Morgan Hostel.

Another day can be spent visiting the ruins of Tayasal and the thermal waterfalls of Malacatiupan. However, don’t brush over Santa Ana town entirely. It is one of my favorites in Central America, and would be on par with the likes of Antigua, Guatemala if it weren’t so painfully hot during the day. It has a great mix of cultural activities, historical sightseeing, and plenty of amazing local food to feast on.

El Salvador Coast: 3 Days

El Tunco

This little beach town, often referred to as Surf City, is one of El Salvador’s premier coastal destinations. It is popular among travelers for its laid-back vibes, surf culture, and bumpin’ nightlife scene. It was very reminiscent of Montanita in Ecuador, another small surf town that had a disproportionately dominant party scene. About thirty minutes away from El Tunco is the even smaller, more laid-back town of El Zonte. Despite not having as much going on as El Tunco or La Libertad, I found El Zonte to have the most beautiful of the coastal beaches.

It’s hard to beat the vibe of a chilled out surf town, so come hang for a few days. Whether you plan on surfing or not, it is a great spot to unwind after trekking volcanoes and diving into waterfalls.

The places we visited are just a handful of the incredible destinations that El Salvador has to offer. The charming colonial town of Suchitoto, the gorgeous combination of volcanoes and ocean in La Union, the lush mountains of El Pital, the list goes on and on. As El Salvador continues to develop into a backpacker hotspot, I’m sure many more of the country’s hidden gems will be revealed and become more accessible to foreign travelers. For now, this sample itinerary should suffice for a first-time visitor to El Salvador.

Closing Thoughts on El Salvador

So, what’s the verdict on El Salvador?

I was sitting on the bed of a truck after hours of hiking in the jungle, climbing up waterfalls, and swimming in secluded natural pools. My Tevas had snapped halfway through the trek, and I had to continue onwards barefoot, tiptoeing around ants and caking my legs with more and more mud. I was drenched in sweat, with my hair matted, and dirt and mud reaching every corner of my body. My legs were hanging out the back of the truck. Local kids would wave as we drove past. I was exhausted, dehydrated, and in desperate need of a shower.

At the same time, I felt very fulfilled. It was exactly the spontaneous and unexpected adventure that made me fall in love with rural Latin America in the first place. It brought me back to hitching rides in small towns like Guane, Colombia and Vilcabamba, Ecuador after a long day of hiking on makeshift trails. Honestly, everything about the day felt makeshift, which makes the adventures feel so natural, so pure, and so authentic.

That’s what every day in El Salvador felt like. I felt at home so quickly here and was able to take a much more easy-going approach to the country. The people were always friendly, helpful, and trustworthy. It took just a few conversations with the local people before I let my guard down and stopped being on edge. In some countries, I stay on edge the entire month I’m there. El Salvador just hits different.

Perhaps I caught El Salvador at a sweet spot. Everything is changing, the country is rapidly modernizing and developing. Its historic centers and cultural monuments are being revitalized. They are overhauling the country in every aspect and the efforts to bring in more international tourists will slowly, but surely, succeed. It will be beautiful to see how El Salvador transforms itself and what the final product of this rebirth will look like.

At the same time, it’s hard not to look at how mass tourism has transformed many places and hope that the same fate doesn’t befall El Salvador. Time will tell, but for now, El Salvador is among the last few untainted destinations in the region. If you want real, rugged experiences and fulfilling, authentic connections, El Salvador is the place to be.

Buy Me A Beer!

If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.

More on Central America

• Two Week El Salvador Backpacking Itinerary
• The Best Destinations to Visit in Guatemala
• The Backpacker’s Travel Guide to Juayua, El Salvador
• The Backpacker’s Travel Guide to Granada, Nicaragua
• The Backpacker’s Travel Guide to Flores, Guatemala