The city of Shkoder, often known as the gateway to the Albanian Alps, is an essential stop on any Balkan travel itinerary. To reach the mountainous national parks of northern Albania, one must pass through the charming city of Shkoder. Backpackers tend to skip big cities, but thankfully, Shkoder is much more than just a stopover town. I was in a hurry to get to the Albanian Alps, but upon getting to Shkoder, I decided to spend an extra two days just chilling before living it up in the mountains. Shkoder was one of the only larger cities in Albania that I enjoyed. It maintained a small town charm within its historic old city, while having all the fun liveliness you can expect from a big city. As a backpacker, you can’t ask for too much more from this budget-friendly city oozing with adventure.

If you’re on your way to the bucket list Valbona to Theth hike, make sure to give Shkoder some of your time, too.

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Table of Contents

• How To Get To Shkoder
• Where To Stay in Shkoder
• How To Get Around Shkoder
• The Best Things To Do in Shkoder
• Food and Nightlife in Shkoder
• More on Albania

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How To Get to Shkoder

Getting to Shkoder From Tirana

The easiest way to get to Shkoder from anywhere in Albania is to get to Tirana and hop on a bus. The buses are very frequent and run throughout the day. Ignore any schedules that you might find online. The buses in Albania basically leave whenever they’re full. Shkoder is about 100 kilometers north of Tirana, and the bus ride takes around three hours.

From Elsewhere in Albania

All roads basically pass through Tirana. There are few direct options for transportation between destinations in Albania, so most likely, you’ll first need to head to Albania’s capital and then transfer to Shkoder from there. From the smaller villages like Berat and Gjirokaster, you will definitely have to do this.

From Montenegro

If you are coming from Montenegro, Shkoder is likely your first stop in Albania. It’s one of the first entry points into the country if you are coming from the north. A lot of people rent cars while road tripping through the Balkans, but buses and taxis are a good option, as well. We took a taxi from Shkoder to get to Budva in Montenegro, so I’m sure one can easily make the journey the other way as well.

Oh, and before you go, make sure to have good travel insurance handy whenever you’re out adventuring. I use SafetyWing to keep me covered throughout my travels for as low as $2 a day.

Which Hostel To Stay At In Shkoder

Shkoder has a few hostels to choose from, but I can’t recommend the one that I stayed at enough. The city is a great backpacker-friendly destination, and this hostel reflects that.

The Wanderer’s Hostel

The hostels in Albania always hit it out of the park, and The Wanderer’s Hostel was no different. It may not have been the most luxurious hostel out there, but the staff went so far out of their way to make sure you were taken care of. I barely had to lift a finger to do anything in Shkoder. If you plan on doing the stunning Valbone to Theth hike, stay at Wanderer’s. They booked my buses, ferry, and accommodation for me. They also let you leave your bags at the hostel for as long as you want so you don’t need to carry everything with you on the hike. For 8 euros a night with breakfast included, this is unbeatable value for its location and hospitality.

The Wanderer’s Hostel does tend to get booked up pretty quickly though, so be sure to make your booking in advance. If you’re out of luck and can’t snag a bed there, make sure to check out the other hostels in Shkoder. Albania is growing increasingly popular as a travel destination and quite a few hostels have started popping up in the tourist hotspots.

How To Get Around Shkoder

Shkoder is a perfectly-sized city. It’s big enough that public transportation runs frequently throughout the city. However, most travelers will be based in the historic city center, and this area is very walkable. Shkoder is also apparently one of the top ten most bike-friendly cities in Europe. You can rent a bicycle in Shkoder for around 3 euros a day. It’s good if you want to get outside the city and explore some of the surrounding natural beauty like Shkoder Lake.

Taxis are also everywhere in Shkoder. I found them to be reasonably priced, but still a last resort if I couldn’t figure out how to walk or bus somewhere. Hitchhiking was a reliable option throughout Albania, and Shkoder was no different. It is a little weird to do it in the city center, and you probably won’t need to. However, we did hitchhike back from Rozafa Castle because we were too lazy to walk the 45 minutes back to the city center. Basically, you won’t have any trouble getting around Shkoder. Public transportation is reliable and inexpensive, but walking and cycling should get you everywhere just fine.

Before biking through the Balkans, make sure you have a plan for staying connected. I use Saily eSIM to keep me online during my travels, ensuring that I have internet from the moment I set foot in a country. From navigating directions, coordinating travel plans with new hostel friends, booking a ride, and so on – having an eSIM simply makes life that much easier when you’re on the road. Data packages for Albania start at just $3, and you can use my code “eli5” for an additional 5% off of your first Saily eSIM.

The Best Things To Do in Shkoder

Like I said earlier, Shkoder is much more than just the gateway to the Albanian Alps. From castles to museums to the beautiful Lake Shkoder, you can easily find something to fill your time here. It’s a great place to spend one or two days on your Albania backpacking itinerary.

Rozafa Castle

This castle is one of my favorites in Albania. Considering I was hitting up a castle in nearly every city, that’s saying something. If we’re talking views, Rozafa’s got them. Views of mountains, views of rivers, views of the city, basically just all of the views that you could hope for. The entry fee to the castle is about 6 euros, and it is totally worth it. Rozafa Castles dates back thousands of years, with history dating back to the Roman capture of the castle back in the 2nd Century BC.

Old Town Shkoder

The long walking street in Old Town Shkoder is where most people will congregate as the sun starts to set and the night begins. Filled with a wide variety of restaurant and nightlife options, this is the place to be. Just go for a walk and keep an eye and an ear out for the liveliest spots in town.

Lake Shkoder

Lake Shkoder is a must for any traveler visiting the city of Shkoder. It is shared with Montenegro, although it’s known as Skadar Lake on the other side of the pond. I’d recommend renting a bicycle and pedaling your way over to the lake. There are a few towns and beaches along the lake, so just find a place to post up, have a meal, and enjoy your lake day.

Museums in Shkoder

There’s the museum at Rozafa Castle that you shouldn’t miss, but aside from that, there are a few in downtown Shkoder. Some of the ones recommended to me were Site of Witness and Memory, Shkoder History Museum, and the National Museum of Photography. I only visited the Site of Witness and Memory, which was a pretty sobering experience. Albania has had a pretty rough past, with the Communist Regime controlling the country until 1991. I mean, Albania’s really only been open to the outside world for thirty years, which is crazy when you think about it. The museum gives a glimpse into the genocide, and lets you walk through the prisons and cells where the victims were kept. It also relays some awful accounts of torture and tragedy.

On a lighter note, the other museums shouldn’t be as depressing, so go check those ones out as well.

Hit up the Albanian Alps

This is what you came here for after all. Shkoder is the gateway to the stunning region known as the Albanian Alps. While I enjoyed my time in Shkoder, definitely try to maximize your time in the Albanian Alps. My biggest regret was not giving myself enough time to truly immerse myself in those beautiful mountains. Most likely, your starting point in the Albanian Alps will be Valbona. Here’s how to get there from Shkoder.

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Food and Nightlife in Shkoder

Of all the places I went to in Albania, Shkoder had the best food. I wasn’t fond of Albanian food at first, but it did gradually grow on me. As a larger city, Shkoder has quite a bit of variety when it comes to restaurants and dining. Being in the north of the country, there is also a lot more Western European influence in Shkoder, particularly Italian influence. My favorite restaurant in Shkoder was Pizzeria Italia, so yeah, big time Italian influence.

You can easily find traditional Albanian food throughout the city. Whether you want to sit down at a traditional restaurant or just grab a traditional Albanian pastry from a bakery, you’ve got options. Peja is a great spot close to the city center for some traditional food. Vila Bekeshi is another spot that I enjoyed, with a good mix of Greek, Albanian, and international flavors.

For nightlife, most of the bars are centered around the historic city center. The walking streets get really lively at night. Treat yourself to a nice dinner before going for a walk and keeping an eye and ear out for where the party is at. Whether your taste is live music or dancing the night away, Shkoder has something for you.

If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Albania, do not miss out on Shkoder. While some people may skip it to go straight into the mountains, Shkoder has a great vibe and is a perfect home base for chilling out pre and post-hiking trip. Albania is a criminally underrated country, and I hope you fall in love with it half as much as I did.

Buy Me A Beer!

If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.

More Posts on Albania

• The Backpacker’s Crash Course To Traveling Albania
• The Backpacker’s Guide to Gjirokaster
• The Backpacker’s Guide to Berat
• The Backpacker’s Guide to Saranda
• The Complete Guide to Albania’s Valbona to Theth Hike
• Guide to Visiting Kruja on a Day Trip From Tirana
• Two Week Albania Backpacking Itinerary