One of the biggest surprises during my recent trip to Pakistan was the quiet, unassuming village of Khaplu. It was my sixth year coming to Pakistan, and each time, I try to visit a different region of the north. After a flight cancellation left me stranded in Islamabad for a few days longer than planned, I decided to slim down my ambitious itinerary across Gilgit-Baltistan and stick to one area. From Skardu, we traveled three hours to the capital of Ghanche District, Khaplu. For a small village, it turned out to be one of the most fascinating places I’ve visited in the country, not to mention the jaw-dropping natural beauty. Tibetan culture, a unique cuisine, and the famed Balti hospitality at its finest helped round out Khaplu as a favorite destination of mine.

There are very few resources online about Khaplu, and we went into our trip fairly blind. Three years prior, I had visited Barah, the village just before Khaplu to take on the Barah Broq trek. I knew the region was beautiful, but besides that, I went in trusting that Pakistan would deliver the way it always has for me.

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Table of Contents

• Where is Khaplu?
• Is Khaplu Worth Visiting?
• How To Get To Khaplu
• Where To Stay in Khaplu
• How To Get Around Khaplu
• The Best Things To Do in Khaplu
• Treks and Hikes from Khaplu
• Closing Thoughts on Khaplu

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Where is Khaplu?

Khaplu, or Khapulu, is the capital and largest city of the Ghanche District, located in the far northeast of the country in the state of Gilgit-Baltistan. Historically, Khapalu was part of the Tibetan Empire. Its location made it a major hub of trade between Tibet, Ladakh, and modern-day Pakistan. Although imaginary borders and geopolitical issues have put an end to this bustling trade corridor, traces of its history can still be felt all over Khaplu and Ghanche. These days, it feels like stumbling into a lush, green oasis amidst the drier, more desolate landscapes of the north.

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How To Get To Khaplu

Khaplu can be a challenge to get to. The fastest way to reach Khaplu is to fly to Skardu and then take a taxi to Khaplu. When asking around, we were quoted between 12 to 15,000 rupees for a private car to Khaplu. There are also minibuses that go to Khaplu, with fares between 600 to 1,000 rupees. Alternatively, you can book a seat in a shared car, which is what we ended up doing to-and-from Khaplu. This cost 1,300 rupees per seat, and since most places and tour agencies would prefer to milk you out of as much money as possible, it is a fairly little-known option. We didn’t know it existed until we messaged our guesthouse in Khaplu and he managed to get us two seats within the hour.

Although Skardu left a sour taste in our mouth, most Pakistanis are honest and lean towards the latter experience. You will find that it is among the kindest, most hospitable countries in the world. Skardu is really the only place I’ve been in northern Pakistan where there is an air of greed and scamminess. The drive takes about three hours, depending on the driver, of course. Our drive back to Skardu from Khaplu flew by as our driver seemed hellbent on reaching town in record time. To be fair, the first time also flew by, but that was because the other passenger in our car was a K-2 Base Camp guide who had countless stories of his 60 trips along the trail.

Where To Stay in Khaplu

There are quite a few accommodation options in Khaplu, but only a handful show up online. One of those is Alpine Resorts, and it was among my most memorable stays across my many years of traveling Pakistan. The room and the view were nice of course, but the host was what truly made it outstanding. Faiz helped us with every facet of our trip and made us feel at home immediately. He would bring plates of cherries and mulberries to our room, and send us off with a big bag of mixed nuts and dried apricots before a big trek.

In a country filled with incredible hospitality and countless people who would give the shirt off their back, Faiz’ kindness still surprised us. I can’t recommend anywhere else in Khaplu. Stay at Alpine Resort. Pick cherries off the trees in their garden. Order a piping hot bowl of Balti ballay or incredibly saucy prappu off of their home-cooked local menu. Feel at home. We absolutely did.

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How To Get Around Khaplu

Getting around Northern Pakistan without a car might be the biggest challenge that one will face. Much of the infrastructure caters to domestic tourists who have their own car, or group travelers with their own private transportation. Public transportation exists in some parts, but isn’t always reliable. Within Khaplu itself, there aren’t any options besides hiring a driver to take you around.

Our first full day in Khaplu, we hired a driver through our hotel. Our itinerary was open-ended, and our driver, Gulam, took us to what he considered can’t-miss spots. He was also a part-time guide who spoke great English, so he was able to provide insight to the places we visited. The laws and restrictions in various parts of Northern Pakistan are also constantly changing, so thankfully we had him to explain to us what was going on at police checkpoints, and reassure us for the stretches where we needed personal police escorts.

We ended up spending another day with him to explore other parts of Khaplu, including places he was also visiting for the first time. The rate for the car was 8,000 rupees for the day, which was pretty great value for the amount of driving and variety of places we visited. He also knew tons of people, and we were frequently invited to his friends’ houses for tea and snacks. He happily gave us rides within town when we needed them, and even hopped in our jeep to Khanday to see us off for the Nangma Valley trek.

Gulam’s company is called North Green Tour and Travel and you can contact him on WhatsApp at +92 344 4010831. Tell him Eli and Trula sent you.

Before setting off on your Pakistan adventure, make sure you have a plan for staying connected. I use Saily eSIM to keep me online during my travels, ensuring that I have internet from the moment I land to the moment I leave. Navigating directions, coordinating travel plans with new hostel friends, booking a ride, and so on – having an eSIM makes life that much easier when you’re on the road. Data packages for Pakistan start at just $5, and you can use my code “eli5” for an additional 10% off of your first Saily eSIM.

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The Best Things To Do in Khaplu

Honestly, the best thing to do in Khaplu is just exist. Almost everywhere you look, there will be a breathtaking view. From Khaplu, the Haldi Cones, the Shyok River, and countless mountains can be seen from anywhere in town. Strolling through the bazaar, it is inevitable that you will be invited for tea, or even dinner at a local’s house. I woke up each day in Khaplu without knowing what awaited me and just taking it as it came. As a Type B traveler, this was peak existence for me. I got invited to speak at a school and had pakoras with the principal. I visited the neighboring village of Saling for lunch with the K2 guide we shared the car with, and then he took us to his trout farm for tea and a short hike. I ended up in the village of Ghorsay being fed apricots and payu cha (pink salted tea) by a sweet grandma and her grandkids.

It was all so random, but also encapsulated everything I love about Pakistan. Just explore Khaplu and see what happens. However, there are a few things that you definitely can’t miss while in Khaplu. Here is a quick list of things to keep you busy in Khaplu.

Khaplu Palace Fort

The Khaplu Palace is undoubtedly the most iconic landmark in the city. Dating back about 200 years ago, this old Balti Fort now houses a museum, a restaurant, and even hotel rooms. Having already visited Baltit Fort in Karimabad and Shigar Fort in Shigar, I was expecting more of the same. However, each one truly shone in different ways. Baltit Fort boasted unbeatable views of Rakaposhi, my favorite mountain in Pakistan. Shigar Fort had orchards filled with cherry trees that we were free to pick from after a short tour. Khaplu Palace had a little bit of everything, but my favorite were the common areas where one could relax. These were immaculately restored and one can truly feel like royalty while laying on one of those cushions and soaking in the mountain views.

The entry fee was 1,200 rupees, which is well worth it for a place you could easily spend an entire day in. It will take less than an hour to go through the museum inside the fort, but I could lounge for hours in those common areas. Sip on a chai or have a delicious meal at the restaurant, and it’s an excellent treat-yo’self day in between stretches of more rugged mountain life here in Northern Pakistan.

Chaqchan Mosque

Sometimes, it is mind-boggling to think about how old some of the things I’m seeing are. The historic Chaqchan Mosque is about as old as it looks, nearly 750 years old. Non-Muslims aren’t permitted to enter the mosque, but even admiring it from the outside for a few brief minutes was awe-inspiring. While the Badshahi and Faisal Mosques are grandiosely impressive and all, I do love the humble, historic wooden mosques just the same.

Hanjor Meadows

A short drive from town will take you to the Hanjour Meadows, a popular spot among locals for frolicking through the flowers or setting up camp and having a barbecue. For a scenic, natural getaway without too much driving or effort, the Hanjor Meadows is an excellent choice.

Thagas Death Track (Sarfa Lam Trail)

One of Pakistan’s most viral locations is the Sarfa Lam Death Track, situated just above the village of Thagas. I actually didn’t realize how close it was to Khaplu, so although I’ve had more than my fair share of narrow trails with sheer drops, we decided to check it out. It took close to two hours to reach the village of Thagas, and from there, it was a steep and shadeless trail before we reached the Death Track.

The hike took less than an hour and the trail was easy to follow. The views of the village, the valley, the Shyok River, and the many mountains were beautiful as you climbed upwards. I even caught a glimpse of Barah Broq, a mountain I had summited 3 years prior.

The Death Track itself goes for miles and miles, leading to a meadow. However, for most people, walking an extra 20-30 minutes to the tunnel is plenty. There are some death-defying stretches for sure, but if you have any experience traveling in Pakistan, it honestly isn’t anything too out-of-the-ordinary. The scenery is spectacular, for sure, feeling like something Frodo and Sam would traverse en route to Mordor.

Thoqsi Khar Mosque

Thoqsi Khar, or whatever of the many variants of the spelling you choose, is a mosque situated atop a hill, popular for its breathtaking views of Khaplu Valley and beyond. It is a short drive further up from Serena Khaplu Palace. A solid afternoon itinerary could take you to the Chaqchan Mosque, the Khaplu Fort, and then up to Thoqsi Khar for golden hour views.

Masherbrum Viewpoint

About half an hour’s drive from Khaplu is an epic viewpoint, perhaps one of my favorites in Pakistan. It offers dramatic views of Masherbrum, the world’s 22nd-tallest mountain. It is one of the most picture-perfect spots in the country, with the Haldi Cones and other mountains seemingly opening up just for Masherbrum to take center-stage. Glimpses of the lush valleys and farming towns leading towards Hushe add an emerald green to contrast the otherwise dry mountainsides. The sweeping views of the Shyok River and the flatlands surrounding it add an otherworldly feel to the setting. Each segment of this panoramic could easily be a different world entirely, yet here they are all at one dilapidated roadside viewpoint, featuring a single aging hut vandalized with political calls-to-action and lovers’ initials.

Haldi Cones Viewpoints

One of the most recognizable landmarks in the Ghanche District are the dramatic Haldi Cones. It’s hard to go anywhere in Khaplu without seeing them, but there are definitely some spots more scenic than others. One of our favorites was this body of water just off the side of the road. Our guide pulled over, told us to hop out, and we wandered around this marshy little meadow for a little while. The reflective views of the Haldi Cones were simply breathtaking. I don’t think it has a name, and I couldn’t pinpoint the exact spot on Google Maps, but it’s somewhere along the stretch between leaving Khaplu and the bridge to cross the river towards Saling.

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Multi-Day Treks from Khaplu

The region around Khaplu also serves as the starting point for many famed treks in the area. Khaplu is kind of the last semblance of civilization before reaching Hushe Valley, famed among expeditioners and mountaineers. It makes sense that people end up here in search of a cushy hotel, proper restaurants (including a pizza place), and a livelier atmosphere pre or post-trek.

However, travelers seeking something more introductory will find that Khaplu has plenty of treks for them, as well. In fact, there are far too many to list. It was overwhelming hearing of all the possible 1-2 day treks in the region, and there are likely countless more that don’t even have names or international renown. Heck, you could walk 20 minutes up any hill and find a view better than what you’ll get anywhere in your home country (assuming you’re not from Peru or Switzerland or something).

The Ghanche Lakes, Machlu La, Nangma Valley, and Barah Broq are a few of the ones that won’t require too much planning or intensive training.

Nangma Valley Trek

This was the undisputed highlight of my time in the Ghanche District. They call Nangma Valley the Yosemite of Pakistan, but after being here, I think I’m going to start calling Yosemite the Nangma Valley of the USA. There is no competition. Both have dramatic cliffs and sheer rock walls, but the comparison kind of stops there. Our campsite in Nangma Valley was already sitting at around 4,000 meters, same as the highest point in all of Yosemite National Park. Throw in massive glaciers, otherworldly spires, and views of 7,000+ meter peaks —such as K6 — and Nangma Valley easily comes out the winner. Yaks, snow leopards, and ibex are known to frequent the region, adding another element of “wow, I’m really f’in out here” to the adventure.

The trek itself wasn’t too challenging. We did a 3 day, 2 night itinerary, although if we were strapped on time, we could have easily done it in two. From Khanday village, it was about a 5-hour hike to Nangma Valley, although that comes with a 1,200 meter elevation gain. That can be tough if you’re not acclimatized. The next day, we hiked to a viewpoint of K6. That only took about 3 hours roundtrip, reaching camp before noon. We lazed around for the rest of the day, in most part thanks to the 20 hours of nonstop rain we were welcomed with upon returning.

It took less than three hours to reach Khanday Village on the third day, so we could have easily made it back on the afternoon of day two if we really needed to. We paid about 45,000 rupees each for the trek, with the jeeps to Khanday costing a significant 12,000 of those rupees. It can be even cheaper if you pack your own food, tent, and sleeping bags, but since we had to rent them and eventually hire a porter since they didn’t fit in our bags, it added quite a bit to the cost. Otherwise, the guide fee is 5,000 per day, and then a handful of miscellaneous entry and community fees.

I’d say it was well worth the money.

Barah Broq (Moses Peak) Trek

Just short of Khaplu is the village of Barah. I ended up here three years before I ever visited Khaplu, embarking on a 4-day trek with promises of K2 views and a 5,400 meter summit. Unfortunately, the clouds shrouded K2 from view, and local disputes amongst the mountain villages forced us up a different 5,000 meter summit. It was still a beautiful trek, and perhaps the most famous in the region aside from Nangma Valley. Departing from Skardu, our group of four paid a little over $200 each for the whole 4-day, 3-night package.

From Khaplu, you can definitely find it cheaper if you ask around. It is a tough trek. All I remember is unrelenting inclines and a treacherous climb up rocks and deep snow to reach the summit.

Ghanche La and Lakes

One of the other hikes we heard about while in Khaplu was the Ghanche La (Pass) trek, supposedly an overnight trek that will take you to several different lakes. I could not find any details of this online. With time to only do one big trek, we opted to go the path more traveled and push through with our Nangma Valley plans. No regrets, of course, but Ghanche La is definitely on my radar for future trips to Khaplu and Ghanche District.

Machulo La

About halfway between Khaplu and Hushe Valley is Machulo, a small town with a stunning wooden mosque and a renowned hike up to a mountain pass. Machulo La came up several times in conversation with local guides and mountaineers, but again, very little actually shows up online. Apparently, you can see some of the Karakoram’s most famous summits from this pass, including K2, Broad Peak, the Gasherbrums, Nanga Parbat, and some of the lesser K’s like K6 and K7. The pass sits at about 5,000 meters above sea level, but I have no idea how long the trek actually takes. Regardless, it’s another one for the to-do list when I get back.

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Closing Thoughts on Khaplu

I truly can’t put to words just how incredible my time in Khaplu was. It was filled with everything I love about Pakistan. — unrelenting hospitality, amazing cuisine, breathtaking landscapes everywhere you look, and a smattering of unexpected side quests to add spice to every day. At the same time, being in this part of Pakistan was filled with new experiences. Of all the places in the world that I’ve yet to visit, I long for Tibet the most. I had no idea I could get a taste of it here in the Baltistan region of Pakistan. Familiar cuisine from my time in Nepal, mosques that resembled Buddhist gompas and stupas, and even little things seeing Tibetan words like Ri and La (Peak and Pass) took me back to my treks in the Tamang districts of Nepal.

I couldn’t have asked for a better experience in Khaplu. The people truly made me feel at home immediately, and the untouched natural beauty was the cherry on top.

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