Botswana is a wild, wild place. It is home to some of the most desolate and otherworldly landscapes I’ve ever traveled through, from the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans to the vast emptiness of the Kalahari Desert which covers 75% of the country. Its lush patches of green seem tranquil, but are home to prowling lions and territorial hippos. The Botswanan people come from many tribes and cultures, yet unite in their preservation of nature and hospitality towards travelers.
My time in Botswana can be summed up by these contrasts. A morning spent waiting hours on the side of the road for a bus that may not come, but the friendly locals kept me in laughter-filled company as the time quickly passed by. For every misadventure or misstep along the way, I was met with something to be grateful for. Botswana is not an easy country to backpack or solo travel in. It becomes even more difficult when you’re on a budget.
Each frustration and challenge led me to an experience I wouldn’t otherwise have had. The lack of public transportation led me to hitchhiking with a group of Germans and eventually experiencing the Okavango Delta with them. The few hostels in Maun shutting down led me to an unforgettable homestay with the kindest family. My time in Botswana was short, but each day was filled with the type of adventure that overflowed your soul with fulfillment.
For those deciding whether or not to visit Botswana, I cannot recommend it enough. Here is everything you need to know before heading to Botswana.
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Table of Contents
- Things To Know Before Going To Botswana
- How To Get To Botswana
- How To Travel Around Botswana
- Accommodation and Where To Stay in Botswana
- Budgeting For Botswana
- The Best Destinations To Visit in Botswana
- Closing Thoughts on Botswana
- Buy Me A Beer!
Things To Know Before Going to Botswana
Do You Need a Visa For Botswana?
Botswana does not require a visa for American citizens. This was a pleasant change from shelling out $50-100 per visa in many other African countries I’d visited prior. U.S. citizens can visit Botswana visa-free for up to 90 days. You won’t need all 90 days, but it’s a good reassurance that you can take things as slow as you need to. Trust me, solo backpacking through Botswana requires a lot of patience.
If you’re not from the U.S., here is a list of countries that do need a visa for Botswana.
Best Time of Year To Visit Botswana
Timing your trip to Botswana can be tricky. The dry season lasts from May to October. This coincides with the Southern Hemisphere’s winter. Temperatures can get very cold at night, especially in the desert regions. This time of year is popular among wildlife enthusiasts. The water sources begin to dry up, and as a result, the animals converge around the fewer remaining water sources. These months are the best time to see animals in abundance.
November to March is the wet season, often considered the low season for tourism. Even on my visit in the high season, I did not run into very many tourists. I don’t think avoiding crowds should be a priority of planning when to visit Botswana. In other words, I don’t see much reason to visit during the rainy season. It brings warmer weather, some migratory birdlife, and is the calving season for many mammals. You can’t go wrong with a visit to Botswana at any time of year, but if you want the full wildlife experience, plan to visit between May and October.
Due to climate change, the seasons in Botswana have changed quite a bit. The timing of the dry seasons and rainy seasons are becoming more and more of a relaxed guideline. I visited Botswana in June, when the rainy season floods should have revived the dry landscapes. Many locals told me that the previous rainy season was not nearly as strong as usual, leaving rivers dried and the Okavango Delta significantly smaller than at its peak. Weather is always unpredictable, but becoming more and more so.
Is It Safe To Visit Botswana?
Botswana is among the safest I’ve ever felt in a country, and there is data to back that up. Botswana was ranked the third safest country in Africa, just behind the island nations of Mauritius and Madagascar. It also ranks as the most politically stable of all the mainland African countries. The people are incredibly friendly, trustworthy, and helpful. Where Botswana’s sparse population lacked in quantity, it made up for in quality. Of all the African countries I visited, the people of Botswana were my favorite.
It’s important to always exercise caution, especially in Botswana’s larger cities and at night. I spent all of my time in smaller towns and felt totally fine. I met many solo female travelers, bikepackers, and hitchhikers who have expressed similar testimonials to Botswana’s safety.
Cultural Norms in Botswana
Botswana is a country of many different cultures and it’s important to respect their traditions and customs. However, Botswana is accustomed to tourism, and there isn’t anything off the top of my head that I’d consider “need-to-know” as far as cultural norms go. You can read about some of the indigenous groups and their culture and customs here.
One of my favorite things about Botswana is their dedication to preserving their environments and protecting their wildlife. Unlike other countries that only view their wildlife as a means for monetary gain, Botswanans have a deep respect and adoration for their animals. I was chatting with some people at a bar and they explained how many tribes and individuals identify with an animal known as their totem. They hold a sacred respect for these animals, and it reflects in their perspectives on conservation and responsible wildlife tourism. Botswana is the most ethical place I have ever gone on safari.
Cash and Currency in Botswana
Botswana uses the Botswanan Pula, which as of September 2024, equates to about 13 pula per U.S. dollar. Cash is king in Botswana. Expect to pay with cash at most businesses. Nicer hotels, restaurants, supermarkets, and some tour agencies will accept credit card, but have cash handy just in case.
Despite being cash-heavy, the ATM situation in Botswana can be bleak. Stock up on cash whenever you get the chance. There’s no guarantee that there will be a functioning ATM in the next village. U.S. dollars are occasionally accepted, mostly for costly excursions and safaris.
Languages and Language Barriers in Botswana
Botswana has many languages, which actually works in your favor as an English speaker. The official language of Botswana is English, but the most widely-spoken is Tswana. There are 31 recognized languages in Botswana, 26 of which are indigenous to the country. With so many tribal languages, most people have resorted to learning English as the lingua franca. Setswana is the most widely-spoken of the indigenous languages, with about 80% of the population speaking Setswana. I had no issues traveling Botswana speaking only English. Many people I met spoke great English and were always happy to help out or have a friendly chat.
Recommended Vaccines and Medications for Botswana
To enter Botswana, it is recommended to have the yellow fever vaccine. It is not required unless you have recently been in a country with a high risk of yellow fever. Aside from that, I would recommend buying malaria pills. The southern half of Botswana is a low-risk area, but the touristic regions in the north are higher risk. Malaria pills are painfully expensive, but I’d say it’s well worth it to, you know, not have malaria.
Getting a SIM Card or eSIM for Botswana
A SIM card is not a want, but a need for Botswana. Wi-Fi, even at the nicest of lodges, can often be unreliable. On the other hand, there is pretty good cell signal throughout most of the country. For road-trippers and solo travelers, a SIM card is worth the safety net of having access to maps and reach out for help if anything happens. SIM cards can be purchased at the airport, supermarkets, and mobile stores. If you are starting your journey in a larger town or city, buy a SIM card there. The chances of finding one are much higher than once you’re out in the bush.
Alternatively, an eSIM is an option. If you end up having to settle for an eSIM, I would use Airalo. You can use the code ELIJAH933 for $3 off your first eSIM. It worked perfectly fine for me in Botswana, even if it was a little more expensive than a physical SIM card.
Travel Insurance for Botswana
While Botswana is generally safe, it’s always a good idea to have travel insurance while adventuring across the world. I use SafetyWing to keep me covered throughout my travels for as low as $56 a month, and their coverage includes Botswana among the 190+ countries that they cover.
How To Get To Botswana
The largest airport in Botswana is Gaborone. Flying to and from Gaborone tend to be the cheapest entry and exit point. However, if you plan on sticking to the tourist attractions of the north, I’d actually recommend flying into either Zambia or Zimbabwe. Livingstone, Zambia and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe are more affordable to fly into. Both are very close to Kasane on the Botswanan border, a great starting point for a Botswana overland trip. The Kazungula border and Kasane can be easily reached from Livingstone and Victoria Falls by public transport or taxi.
Outside of Gaborone, both Maun and Kasane have small airports. The flights are infrequent and can be expensive, but worth looking into for travelers short on time.
Alternatively, if you are coming from Namibia, you can cross over the border to Ghanzi or Maun. Without your own transportation, it can be complicated. Here is how I did the journey from Maun to Windhoek, so just follow these steps in reverse.
How To Travel Around Botswana
When it comes to transportation, Botswana is one of the more challenging countries I’ve been to.
Renting a car is far and away the best way to travel Botswana. With Botswana’s nearly non-existent public transportation options, a car truly is the best way to go. While expensive, especially as a solo traveler, it allows you to visit destinations that you otherwise won’t be able to. An added benefit of renting a car would be the possibility of car camping, further saving you money on accommodation. Many lodges and hostels allow you to pay for a car camping spot with access to their facilities for a fraction of the price of a room.
If renting a car is not an option, there are buses and shared vans that go from city to city. They’re very infrequent and often unreliable. Even the locals admit that the departure times can be a crapshoot. However, they are affordable and can take you to the major cities in Botswana. There’s practically just the one circular highway around Botswana, so any town along that road can be easily accessed.
Taxis also exist in Botswana, although are more centered around the city. “Normal” taxis run a set route around the city. Hop on one of these if your destination happens to be along that route. “Special” taxis are private taxis. These are more expensive, but can take you directly to your destination. You might be able to negotiate a rate for longer distances if you’re running out of options.
As a last resort, hitchhiking is a solid option for getting around Botswana. There are a decent number of over-landers and road-trippers in Botswana, as well as friendly locals. Despite the vast distances and sparse population, it won’t take too long to find a ride. I met a fair few hitchhikers in Botswana. They inspired me to hitch the journey from Nata to Maun, and then stretches of the grueling Maun to Windhoek journey. It is indeed as easy as they said.
Where To Stay in Botswana
Botswana might be the first country I’ve been to where I thought about just straight up buying a tent. There are plenty of places to stay in the country, but the majority are fancy lodges catering to a wealthier clientele. Many of those lodges offer camping as a budget-friendly option. The rates can be dramatically different. I’d browse through the accommodation rates and it’d be $150 for a room or $10 for a camping spot. Consider bringing a tent or purchasing one. It will make your trip to Botswana significantly cheaper.
However, it wasn’t essential. I managed to get by without a tent just fine. I admittedly missed out on some off-the-beaten-path destinations due to not having my own car or tent. My itinerary was unfortunately decided by whether I could afford to sleep in a given destination. There are a few hostels in Botswana, but even those were usually outside of town and required a taxi to reach. I stayed at Elephant Trail Backpackers in Kazungula, Eselbe Backpackers Camp in Nata, and Golentle Homestay in Maun. All of them were fantastic and I would recommend them to anyone. The homestay in Maun was an incredible experience. If you end up staying there, please say hi to Kay and her kids for me.
Budgeting for Botswana
The cost of living in Botswana is low, but the cost of enjoying can be high. Going on safaris and staying at fancy lodges can quickly add up. As a backpacker on a budget, the supermarkets were a godsend. Groceries are cheap and the larger supermarkets often had readymade meals at a budget-friendly price.
One can get by on less than $15 a day in Botswana. It’s the activities that add up, but even then, I found them to be much cheaper than the other countries I’ve visited. A sunset boat safari in Chobe National Park was only about $35, for example. Even the Okavango Delta, when organized on our own, only cost about $50 per person for a day trip. It’s almost impossible to find a game drive in East Africa for less than $150 per day, so these were great deals.
In my ten days in Botswana, I spent about $500. That was with mostly private accommodation and doing quite a few safaris. If you plan on camping and cooking your own meals, that cost can be driven down drastically. That $50 a day figure can also be a pipe dream if you want to cross everything off your list. A game drive through Moremi, a helicopter ride over the Okavango Delta… There are some pricy things to do in Botswana, and if you’ve got the budget for it, do it.
Best Things To Do in Botswana
Botswana is home to some bucket list destinations. Although I spent less than two weeks there, it was absolutely jam-packed. Not a day was wasted, with Botswana simply throwing back-to-back-to-back natural wonders at my face. I could barely process the awe of one destination before I was thrown into yet another unforgettable experience. While traveling around the country was often challenging, there was not a single destination that I would say was not worth the hassle.
Okavango Delta
Perhaps the most famous of Botswana’s destinations is the Okavango Delta. The Okavango is a uniquely beautiful ecosystem home to serene landscapes and countless animals. The Delta is ever-changing, a labyrinth of waterways winding through its islands and marshland. Hopping on a mokoro and sailing through the delta in the morning light is one of the most tranquil and surreal experiences I’ve ever had. If you only do one thing in Botswana, it should be the Okavango Delta.
Makgadikgadi Salt Pans
For a truly otherworldly feeling, you can’t miss the salt pans that make up the Makgadikgadi. This is among the largest salt flats in the world, and if you’ve never seen one before, then it is a can’t-miss experience. It’s a far cry from the wildlife-rich regions that you may have encountered so far. The vast nothingness and endless salt flats is a sight to behold.
There are many different salt pans that make up the Makgadikgadi. While they may be fairly similar in landscape, they do have little differences that make them unique. The Nxai Pan, for example, are home to adorable meerkats. Although I’ve been to the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, this was still an amazing place to visit. I mean, Bolivia didn’t have hyenas and wildebeests roaming their salt flats, so that’s a point to Botswana for sure.
Chobe National Park
The highest concentration of wild elephants can be found in Botswana’s Chobe National Park. Whether you explore Chobe by boat or jeep, your odds of seeing elephants are as large as these creatures themselves. Hippos and crocodiles also roam these waters, while buffalo, giraffes, and lions wander about on land. Native and migratory birdlife is diverse and plentiful, making Chobe a perfect destination to spot some wildlife.
Moremi Game Reserve
With its variety of habitats, ranging from savannas, forests, and wetlands, Moremi Game Reserve is a premier destination for safari-goers. It’s home to the Big Five, as well as countless other species of animals. While it’s best to expect nothing before going on safari, Moremi is popular for its high chance to see predators in action. This includes the rare African wild dog, whose populations have been dwindling to critical levels. Moremi is home to around 200 of these beautiful creatures.
Central Kalahari Game Reserve
Despite being one of the largest game reserves in the world, the Central Kalahari is also among the least-visited. Its desolate landscapes make it a challenge to explore, and few dare to traverse this potentially treacherous region. The stars of the show here are the black-maned Kalahari lions, as well as an abundance of cheetahs. Speaking of stars, you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the world with as clear of a night sky as the Kalahari. High risk, high rewards.
Tsodilo Hills
Tsodilo Hills is the lesser-known of Botswana’s two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the other being of course, the Okavango Delta. Unlike the other destinations on this list, the main draw to Tsodilo Hills isn’t wildlife or natural beauty. It’s the man-made art carved and painted into the caves and rocks, dating back to 24,000 years ago.
Final Thoughts on Botswana
Between its diverse natural landscapes, massive wildlife populations, and incredibly friendly people, Botswana ranks very high on my list of favorite countries. Every day was adventure in its purest form. Though I had my fair share of slips and stumbles along the way, I never once felt any resentment towards this amazing country. I truly have nothing but glowing things to say about Botswana. If you’re considering a trip to Botswana, do not hesitate. It is well worth every penny.
Buy Me A Beer!
If this post helped you out, please show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated. It allows me to keep writing travel guides to help you all travel the world on a budget.